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Ruin
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Ok...it would depend on what type of a trigger job you are talking about.

Replacement parts that already are tuned to a lighter pull....or breaking out a file on the mechanism that's already in that Sistema.

A replacement job would be prefectly safe provided that whoever installs the new parts knows what he/she is doing. All angles will end up correctly and the pull should be ok.

Break out the file yourself however and you might end up altering the angles of the parts slightly and end up with a hairtrigger that can go off at any time. And as the dude over at M1911.org said, some of the older parts isn't hardened in the same way as modern parts. There might just be surface hardening of it and filing away on that could make whatever part it is brittle.

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I think the $10k fine and 10 years in the pokie is enough to persuade anyone not to do it.... which seems to be the same punishment for all federal firearm offenses.  The worst part is it's a felony if convicted and you can't own firearms anymore period.

I guess I won't tell you about how he made a mortar out of some pipe... :nono:

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I think the $10k fine and 10 years in the pokie is enough to persuade anyone not to do it.... which seems to be the same punishment for all federal firearm offenses.  The worst part is it's a felony if convicted and you can't own firearms anymore period.

I guess I won't tell you about how he made a mortar out of some pipe... :nono:

no please dont, i feel like im going to get a felony just for reading this :rofl:

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Is there any way to figure out if your part is just surface hardened? Is this something my gunsmith should be able to tell me?

Also, any filing will be done by my gunsmith, not me... not yet. :)

Ruin, just like cars, guns are something that I took step by step.

The first mods I made on a car were exhaust and other bolt on parts to my 86' Stang. I didn't get into the more complex items until I knew what I was doing.

In the same way, the first thing I did to a gun was a drop in trigger job to a competition model Glock. I didn't start applying any machining to my guns until I completely understood the function of every single part in the gun. Then I started machining parts, or in some cases, making my own parts (just a fabricated disconnector for an AR with a RLL so that it could fire in semi auto mode without having to remove the link).

Don't be in a hurry to learn all of this stuff all at once, because to some degree it is a process. Relax, and enjoy excercising your second amendment rights. If you are still very young you will have plenty of time in the future to do all the things that you will want to later.

Just have fun with it and be safe. We'll be around, and you can share what you are learning with us down the road in this thread. We'll keep it alive. :thumbsup:

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First, I recommended Ruin stick to part replacements at this point. Anyone who can disassemble the inards of a firearm can do a parts swap no sweat, especially in a 1911. No danger involved. Second, if you're taking a file to a sear you need your head examined. The only things you should be using are hard specialty stones that just polish the contact points. You also run function tests afterwards to make sure your trigger job is safe, like dropping the slide to make sure the hammer stays put.

A Sistema is a Colt licensed product; it was assembled by a country and factory to Colt's specs and with their permission. So it is and isn't a Colt. But even Colt's of that period were just surface hardened and the slides/frames were spot hardened (like around the barrel lugs and frame holes, etc.). Er... So don't try shooting any .45 Super and only using +P .45 ammo when you have to is a good idea.

Anyway, the point about hardened parts is whether they're surface hardened or deeper. If they're surfaced hardened than you can work through the hardening treatment while polishing the contact points and the soft metal will be exposed. At this point, your trigger job will seem safe at first but as the points wear during firing, the soft metal will deform to the point where it won't hold the hammer anymore. This causes problems identical to a bad trigger job where the gun slam fires, goes full-auto and so on because the sear doesn't catch the hammer. Even modern guns like my Witness have been rumored to have only surface hardening on the sear. You won't know until you start working on the part and it all of the sudden starts removing drastically more material as you polish. Anyway, that's another good reason to stick with aftermarket drop-ins. You can get a Wilson hammer and sear for around $45, why risk it? A McCormick hammer and sear combo can be had for even less. If you want to try you hand at fitting something, buy a Kart Easy-Fit barrel.

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That is good advice RooK.

BTW I ran into a guy that has an old Colt 10mm and he shoots the heck out of it, and it shoots very nicely (sent it to Nowlin for a through "going over"), but he says that it is a VERY high maintainance gun.

I'm really just thinking of going with a Glock for the 10mm caliber. I really don't think that a 1911 can reliably handle more than a .45, and even with that round it will require more attention than a Glock will.

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Great advice Rook!!!

I think that the 1911 in general is a high maintenance gun, it can be very accurate when it's done right, but I've seen more than one bad 1911, even straight from the factory, some of them never work right.

When you get into the high $$ pistols, you are paying for quality through & through, from the frame to the slide all the way down the to the smaller parts.

Personally, I would go shoot the heck out of what you have, as you have it, then make a decision on mods based on what you like or don't, the trigger weight may just need some getting used to, mines got to be 6-7lbs, it's never been modded. I bought it that way, and learned to shoot it that way. I know how it breaks, and when it's ready to stimulate that loud bang, but that's because I've been using it for 14 years. :)

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@jchung, oddly, that's exactly how I started on my truck. First performance mod was a Flowmaster, haha. My engine is too puny for anything major though, and parts are just too darn expensive. Drop $20,000 and have a top of the line car, or drop $3000 and have a top of the line gun... I like my options. :lol:

Thanks again guys. :)

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If you get a Glock, plan on buying a new barrel (kkm) for heavy loads. Seems people are having problems with the 'smile' on cases. I have nothing against Glocks other than their long trigger pulls, not exactly the best for target work or hunting. I may end up owning a G20 myself eventually though. Delta Elites are too expensive for a used gun, DWs are too expensive for an new gun, and the aftermarket goodies just don't exist for my Witness.

Btw, lost the mag catch plunger on my Witness today. See what happens when firearm disassembly goes wrong? :D Going to try making one from the rear of a drill bit that is the perfect size. At least the 1911 only has one jumpy spring and it's easy to catch: The plunger when removing the safety. They're also easy to get replacement parts for...

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Rook, Ruin, ever considered HS2000 (Springfield XD in US)? Cheaper then Glock, simmilar features and just as reliable. Comes in 9mm, 40SW, 357SIG and as of recently 45GAP. (still no 45ACP... :( )

Off topic; Rook, any advice on what a good scope mount for AK-47 would be? Considering that one can't just mount a scope on top of the rear of the gun, as it is a removable cover, so every time one would strip down a gun, the scope would get missaligned and needed to be zeroed-in all over again...

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The XDs are nice and do come in .45 ACP now in the US. I've never shot one but they feel good in the hand. Almost bought a used one in .40 that I saw running in the mid $300s. If only they'd make a 10mm...

As for the AK mount, yours had the side mount right? If so, any of the QD side mounts should work. Not much you can do about any loss of zero if it happens though, it's just a fact that AKs weren't meant for optics. If you don't have a side mount, you'll have to opt for a dust cover or rear sight (extended relief or red dot) solution.

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XD-45

Nice looking package to be sure, and as Rook stated, feels great in the hand.

As far as the AK goes, not sure what kind of optic you want to mount, but there are Picatiny equipped handguards where you could mount some type of red dot, or longer eye relief scope in a scout configuration?

Setup similar to this AK47 Rail

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Shot a 9mm XD. Can't say it felt any different from a Glock.

@RooK

Never seen a G20 having any issues with the hotter loads. I know two people with G20s and they shoot the Corbon "hunting" rounds all the time. Both people have had their guns for almost ten years, shoot very regularly, and have not had any issues ever.

@Streinger

The only solution I have seen to the AK may not be a very good one. It resulted in a scope that sits somewhat high above the barrel, but did no require it to be zeroed in every time.

Essentially the person attached a rail to the upper, then attached a scope to a detachable rail that could be removed. It sat about as high up as a Wilson Combat UT-15 that has the high mount which allows the use of iron sights with a scope. Not the most desireable solution.

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@RooK

Never seen a G20 having any issues with the hotter loads. I know two people with G20s and they shoot the Corbon "hunting" rounds all the time. Both people have had their guns for almost ten years, shoot very regularly, and have not had any issues ever.

Corbon isn't exactly up to specs. The current 'hotloaders' out there are DT and Texas Ammo. Anyway, your hit or miss on whether you get an under supported chamber, but even the guys in the 10 ring at GT get Glock Smiley's when pushing loads. Case in point:

DSC00363.JPG

DSC00356.JPG

DSC00366.JPG

Just be careful.

Ryan: http://www.markii.org/images/10mm.jpg

http://www.markii.org/images/10mmm.jpg

As I've said, my only complaints are lack of aftermarket. EGW does make a sear for them, but it disables the firing pin stop.

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Actually RooK, that really is not a problem. There are people on the 10-8 forum that know a heck of a lot more than I do (documented Navy Seals, Swat team members, Current and former personnel, etc... all documented personnel, can't be a part of the forum without proof of identity), and split casings are not an issue that should cause concern when firing 10mm firearms.

They say it is common and nothing to worry about.

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Woah, more info! :)

I like that XD, kinda neat looking... need to get my hands on one.

Edit:

Springfield Armory Page

This one gives prices, shows different calibers, specs and finishes. Very cool indeed. I'm amazed by the price to be honest. Although, I'm no pro as to what you would expect to pay for a hand-gun.

Edited by Ruin
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jchung, Glocks are the only 10mm firearm I know of that lets cases rupture at the head. I wouldn't mind a loose chambered rifle so much, but see as that gas will be funneled between my two hands, it's not a nice thought.

Ruin, a good rule of thumb for finding a realistic ballpark on any firearm price is to just go with 85% of the MSRP. I know one of my local gun shops actually quotes all firearms you order (they don't stock) as generally 80% of MSRP.

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Thanks Rook, that's nice that someone comes in UNDER MSRP, haha.

@jchung, that's a nice link, but they need more product detail. What comes in a "Package"? The same stuff as SA says (that whole $70 value kit)?

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Rook's on the money again, NEVER pay retail, the advent of the internet is killing the small guy. There are deals to be had, and friends with an FFL never hurt either :devil:

I was quoted $350 for a new SA1911 GI model, and told that the XD9 would run me similar. Decisions, Decisions.

I need to shoot the XD9, and compare it to the G19, then make my decision on my next purchase. Not that the G19 or the 9x19 is beloved in this arena, but I think it's a superb defensive carry pistol for my needs.

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