RC Cars/Trucks

[RooK]

Anyone here own a nitro stadium truck? I got an AE RC10GT RTR Plus for xmas, and it has been nothing but a hassle so far.

First problem: Got it home, and had to wait to get some fuel. When I finally did, found out the fuel tank was blocked, and would need a new one. Though, after calling AE, they sent me a new one free, now the fuel tubing is too short, and I can't run it cause it's having air leaks and making it unable to tune because it idles and dies or idles so fast it runs off. It's had maybe half a tank through it so far.

Second, the Throttle End adjustment on the controller is broke (known defect), and they expect me to send them this remote and wait for a replacement.... Maybe after I've had it running a while, I'll get it replaced, but not yet.

Any words of encouragement or some tips on how to get this thing up to expectations? It's my first, true RC vehicle, but I thought I might as well jump into nitro (what I really want) rather than investing all that money into motors, chargers and batteries, when really, all I'd carry over is the learning of handling and how the radio works (which both are simple enough, seeing as they work much like real cars and other radios).

It may have only ran for 3mins tops, but I loved every second of it Off tommorrow to buy some new fuel line, a temp gauge and maybe something else if it suits me.

[XRW_Hotdog]

wow that is a rough start to a nitro truck. it will get better though, trust me. right now i have a T-Maxx (too many add-ons to list) a Kyosho Spyder MKll ralli style car and an older nitro car i converted into a baja buggy. i love all three of my nitro r/c's.

when you get into nitro you have to be prepared to do a fair amount of "tinkering". it would be wise to get a toolbox and start picking up little odds and ends for r/c from your hobby shop.

Is this truck for racers or beginners?

This is not a toy truck, this is a real RTR high-performance truck that's made for those who want the very best RTR gas truck they can get, even though they probably will never race it except against their buddies. And that's the reason we put a .15 size engine in the truck. It's not really intended for the racer because he needs a .12 size engine to race legally.

It's best to have about 1 foot coming from the muffler to the tank. This will keep the pressure in the tank more equal throughout the fuel run. As for the length to the carb, a couple of centimeters more will give you a bit more run time, but too long and you will not have enough pressure to keep the fuel flowing from the tank to the carb.

go to this website for all the tips you will need to get the truck running properly

http://www.rc10.com/basicshub/troubleshoot...oting/index.htm

nitro can be frustrating at first. just stick with and you will have fun. good luck

[Schenkanator]

I have a TL-01 (Ni-Cad battery) Ford Focus WRC.

Goes sick on dirt.

[RooK]

XRW, allready got a lot of tools and such, just needed some specialty things like a glow plug wrench, and maybe some decent allen wrenches later.

Got an RPM bumper, CVDs, fuel line and so on for it today. So, hopefully tommorrow, temperatures permiting, I'll try to run a couple more tanks through it.

Also, picked up a Paasche airbrush as well as .7hp compressor. Used to have a Badger, but it got lost when I moved a while back, so thought I'd pick up a new one. At least painting bodies is fun.

I think the most challenging thing will be tuning the carb. If I ever get it right (engine will probably be shot by then), at least I'm prepared for a new piston/sleeve or new engine.

Know any low-priced, metal-geared, hi-torque servos? I'm wanting something around 80-100oz for the steering to get a little bit more out of it. I'm considering replacing this POS Ace Jaguar with a Airtronics MX3 as well.

[RooK]

Forgot to ask... about setting the high-speed needle. It says not to over-tighten, but how far is that? When I screw it in, I get resistance (I assume it's the rubber o-ring). Should I stop here, or continue till I can screw it in any longer?

Edited January 9, 2003 by RooK

[XRW_Hotdog]

Also, picked up a Paasche airbrush as well as .7hp compressor. Used to have a Badger, but it got lost when I moved a while back, so thought I'd pick up a new one. At least painting bodies is fun.

i have to agree there. i have a Pasche single action airbrush with a crappy compressor. here is one of my T-Maxx shells i painted for my online racing team.

Know any low-priced, metal-geared, hi-torque servos? I'm wanting something around 80-100oz for the steering to get a little bit more out of it. I'm considering replacing this POS Ace Jaguar with a Airtronics MX3 as well.

hi-torque servos aren't cheap unfortunately. best thing to do is try E-Bay.

Forgot to ask... about setting the high-speed needle. It says not to over-tighten, but how far is that? When I screw it in, I get resistance (I assume it's the rubber o-ring). Should I stop here, or continue till I can screw it in any longer? I think the most challenging thing will be tuning the carb. If I ever get it right (engine will probably be shot by then), at least I'm prepared for a new piston/sleeve or new engine.

if you are getting resistance i would back off about an 1/8th of a turn. lol don't worry you won't need a new piston and sleeve for a while. i beat my r/cs and they are all on the same engines after 2 years.

[Velocity]

I got a 1:10 wide bodied, super-suspension, nitro alfa romeo touring car. Does about 30-40mph and is a beast when i got my spikey tyres on it . I just go outside on road with it and burn around on road beating the neighbours cars up and down the street lol (also like my stunts and dounuts every now and then lol ). With a full tank it'll fun for around 30-45mins which is really cool compared to some that last bout 15mins on a full tank.

If you've just bought one i suggest you just fill the tank and take it out for a spin, once you mastered the controls you can handle the car/truck/buggy/jeep/bus(yes there are rc buses lol ) like a dream.

Here's a little hint though, dont sniff the nitro fuel these rc beasts run on, you'll be 'high' for a week lol

[RooK]

With the stuff I bought, got it up and running. Still having problems keeping it running though... It either wants to take off like a rocket or die. I can't set the idle right either, because of this. Setting it to where it will run makes the clutch engage, setting it lower makes it run for 5 secs then die. Gotta work on that.

Don't sniff the fuel? oops That was one of the first things I did when I opened it... but I didn't seem to get high off it (Red Alert 20%). Did you inhale your lungs full

I've been painting up a RC10GT Crowd Pleazer body, so maybe I'll post pics of that when I get it finished.

I'd rather not buy off ebay if I can help it. I know a hi-torque servos are expensive, but there are cheaper ones, no?

[XRW_Hotdog]

ok Rook, for getting it to idle right... is it cold where you are? this will make it even harder to get running. try and read some info from sites that talk about cold weather tuning if need be.

also try some online hobby sites to find prices on the servos.

btw the best nitro fuel is Trinity Monster Horsepower fuel. fuel can make a difference as well.

[Velocity]

Don't sniff the fuel? oops That was one of the first things I did when I opened it... but I didn't seem to get high off it (Red Alert 20%). Did you inhale your lungs full

Well i was filling up the tank with a large gallon container of fuel when i accidentally spilt some on my clothes without me noticing, but after sitting there for 15 mins tweaking the car and filling the tank i got used to the smell of the fuel and so couldn't smell it (if you get what i mean). Therefore i had fuel on my clothes for about the next 5 hours and was smelling it all the time without noticing, kinda gave me a headache and makes you feel groggy. Was kind of like the effect the morning after drinking too much, but just without the pleasure of actually drinking the night before lol

fuel can make a difference as well.

This is a very valid point, make sure you are using the correct fuel and is only something like 10% fuel as you have to 'run in', 'burn through', whatever you wish to name it, the engine when you first buy it. Once this is done, couple of months to be safe (depends on how much time you spend using it) you can move up to the more powerful 15% and 20% fuel.

[RooK]

XRW, yes it's cold here in Ky, around 40-30F lately. Everything I've seen, says to richen on cold days due to the denser air. Maybe richen the low speed needle? Might try that next time, too cold atm to run it.

Velocity, never really noticed a smell from my fuel. It's more of a light funky smell, not very strong at all. Everything I've read also says to break-in the engine with the fuel you're gonna run all the time, so I went ahead and bought a gal of Red Alert 20%... They had O'Donnel (duratrax brand as well) and some Sidewinder, but both were in only quart sizes.

Edited January 12, 2003 by RooK

[Velocity]

Everything I've read also says to break-in the engine with the fuel you're gonna run all the time, so I went ahead and bought a gal of Red Alert 20%

Oh i dont know then , i was told by the guy in the shop to break-in the engine with a low percentage fuel and then work up. He's a specialist in rc vehicles and equipment at a local professional rc shop. He goes to a load of the competitions and tourny's in uk so he seemed to know what he was talking about. But may be different break-in procedure for the different rc vechicles

[XRW_Hotdog]

He's a specialist in rc vehicles and equipment at a local professional rc shop. He goes to a load of the competitions and tourny's in uk so he seemed to know what he was talking about.  But may be different break-in procedure for the different rc vechicles

actually it varies from person to person and everyone has their own opinion on it. lol for me i just go by the books i read and my engines all run fine since i broke them in.

[RooK]

Breaking-in an engine seems to be the most controversial as well as the least understood thing in r/c cars. They know they need to do it, but there is no one true way to accomplish it. I'll just follow the engine instructions for now, couldn't hurt too much, if at all.

XRW, yep, was the low speed needle. Richened it to around a 1/4 turn and it ran like a scalded dog. I still haven't got the idle right, but it's very close.