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Kyle_K_ski

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Everything posted by Kyle_K_ski

  1. Wow. I'm surprised that companies as big as these engage is such behavior. Thanks for the input NighCrawler.
  2. In the past week, I've been receiving emails from those that oversee account usage for WoW and RIFT games, informing me that if I don't cease and desist in illegal online activities (of selling game-based weaponry and the like) that they'll permanently ban me from the games. I'm assuming that someone "out there" is using my email account to cover up their illicit-virtual operations, although what's very strange is that I've never received any "welcome to our servers" emails that are usually typical for when one initially sets up an account. But, whatever... I don't even own these titles. Should I respond to these emails, ignore them till they go away, or...?
  3. Buehgler, Thanks for your step-by-step help. I'm getting a new system altogether now, so this problem is "solved." Thanks again!
  4. Thank you Zeealex! Alright, so it's good to know that I won't have to worry about an XP hard drive communicating through a different Win 7 hard drive because they won't be physically hooked up to one another. And I can't imagine ever wanting to start up the computer from the old 200 GB hard drive, so having to select a boot option shouldn't be an issue either. I still have one question though, just to be sure, and that's if whether or not I should have the 200 GB hard drive plugged into the motherboard at the time I'm installing the Win & Professional Upgrade on the newer 300 GB hard drive. Will the Win 7 installation process automatically "seek out" other hard drives,. and overwrite or reformat them? I want to avoid this because I want to preserve what's on the 200 GB drive. Which reminds me, should I uninstall Win. XP from that old 200 GB hard drive before I plug it into the new motherboard? The reason I ask is due to the licensing issue. If I can only have Win. XP installed on 1 computer, if I leave it on the old hard drive, wouldn't that count (or, more accurately, be misinterpreted) as being 2 uses of the license, thus "violating" it? If that happened, would it be possible that the Win. 7 Upgrade won't install itself, or am I barking up a wrong tree? Also, if I uninstall he Win. XP operating system from the old 200 GB hard drive, would that make it impossible for me to retrieve all of the other data that's on that hard drive? Still nervous! Kyle April 9, 2011
  5. Howdy Folks. I have 5 boxes' worth of parts to put together, and still no operating system. I have yet to hear from Digital River as to whether or not the items I scanned and sent to them are sufficient proof that I'm a college student for the $30 price for Win. 7 Professional Upgrade. I have a question in regards to my old 200 GB hard drive. It's an ATA 100 200 GB Maxtor hard drive. Will I need some special kind of adapter so that the newer 300 GB Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 can access it? The Seagate is SATA. Are they already compatible in regards to exchanging information, or...? What I would like to do is setup my 200 GB to be a slave, and the 300 GB to be the master. Now the Win. 7 64-bit operating system is going on the 300 GB hard drive. My concern is this: if I DON'T overwrite the 200 GB hard drive, which has Win. XP already iinstalled on it, will the 300 GB master hard drive with Win.7 have any difficulties writing/retrieving/processing data to/from it? Or, do I have to zero out the old 200 GB drive, set it to "slave," and have it connected to the newer 300 GB master hard drive before I install Win. 7? I thought that I read somewhere that if one had more than one hard drive connected together at the time that Win. 7 was installed, that the installation process would automatically format any additional hard drives that are slaved to the master that's receiving the Win. 7 encoding. Is this correct? If so, then I'd want to connect the old 200 GB only after the new OS is installed on the 300 GB drive, right? Ideally, I'm hoping that it's no big deal if I leave the Win. XP system installed on the old hard drive, but I wonder if I have to uninstall Win XP from that drive so that it can be installed on the newer drive first, and be ready for the Win. 7 Professional Upgrade to "sense" that it's already installed and that only the one license is rightfully being used, so that it will proceed with the installation of the upgrade... Thanks for your insights!
  6. Ahhh-hah! It looks like I can install the 64-bit version of Win. 7. Here's the details page: My link The most pertinent parts read... and this... What I was also pleased to read was this: So, I can write the ISO to a flash drive, and run it as the boot disk from there. Nice! It's been years since I've tried burning anything from my CD/DVD player, I was a bit worried that it wouldn't work if I had to burn a DVD to install it. Feel free to correct me if I'm reading this wrong, but this certainly looks like a VERY generous 64 or 32 bit offer via Digital River for college students!
  7. Roco*AFZ*, I looked up Windows Professional Uprade, and time and again I see the following features listed: # Requires 1GHz or faster 32-bit (x86) or 64-bit (x64) processor # Requires 16GB (32-bit) or 20GB (64-bit) hard drive # Requires 1GB RAM (32-bit) or 2GB RAM (64-bit) # Requires DirectX 9 graphics processor with WDDM 1.0 or later driver So, I'm assuming that one can select whether or not one wants to install a 32 bit version or a 64 bit version. Am I mistaken on this? The site from Digital River doesn't list any details on whether or not the version they're selling is "32 bit only" or "64 bit only." How I hope that it's not just the 32 bit version.
  8. Folks, I apologize for my poor wording, as I failed to mention that I have every intention of installing the games from the discs once Win. 7 Professional Upgrade is up and running. I just didn't know if there were obvious files that were "exclusively 32-bit" which I shouldn't bothering copying. Thanks for the advice everyone!
  9. One of the things that I'm soon doing is backing up all of my currently installed games' directories from the Win. XP hard drive, with the intention of pasting them over the new installation of the same titles, but on the new Windows 7 operating system. Are there certain files that I shouldn't copy? For example, I'm going to be installing the 64-bit version of Win. 7, so I'm not sure if during the installation process of one of these games if different files are going to be installed that I wouldn't want to overwrite because the games' files were originally generated in Win. XP which is a 32-bit system. For that matter, maybe I'm thinking about this all wrong. Since I'm using Windows 7 Professional Upgrade due to my previous ownership of Win XP, maybe I need to install these older, pre-64 bit titles in what's referred to the Win. 7 literature as the "Win XP Mode," whatever that is? I hope that I'm making sense here. I guess that I'll find out soon enough, won't I? Thanks in advance for any input and clarifications!
  10. It looks like I'm going to purchase a digital download at college students' rates of Windows 7 Professional Upgrade. I can get it for $65 (a huge savings!), and I'm eligible since I'm a student who is taking a very tough Macroeconomics course. I found out that as long as one has Win. XP, one's system can be upgraded to the new Win. 7 OS, but the installation process is quite involved, and requires wiping out all of the previous files. Once can also upgrade Win. Vista, but for Vista, previously created files are not wiped out. I called MS Support and spoke with a woman there who assured me that the digital download can be redownloaded at no penalty, provided as one doesn't lose their License and Product Numbers. I was very clear on asking this, in case there are any future hardware failures or upgrades. I downloaded the .pdf on how to upgrade Win. XP to Win. 7, and it's 17 pages long, and they warn that it could take up to 2 hours to do. Joy! So, I'm starting to backup all of my files tonight, and I'm going to start downloading the latest BIOS and drivers as well. Being proactive will hopefully save a lot of confusion later, as well as speed up the build process.
  11. Zeealex and Scott, Thanks for your input. Again, it encourages me, and honestly, my knees are a bit wobbly contemplating all of the "wonderfully fun" things that could happen putting my very first computer together. The little ones will NOT be in the room with me at the time, needless to say. Your words, Scott, are causing me to reconsider giving overclocking another go. I'll try the program that you're advising after I run the card under its own design specifics for a while. Let it "stretch its legs" a bit. One thing I almost ordered more of, in spite of my budget constraints, is more RAM. Do you think that I'll have enough to be able to run the STALKER series at its highest settings and still maintain a decent framerate? Keep in mind that my definition of "decent framerate" is the same as the industry standard for cinema: 24 frames per second. It amazes me how often I come across people complaining about having framerates that dipped into the 80's. What the...? And now, one more request for help in regards to the operating system. If you can, please comment on it here: Win. 7 discussion thread Thank you! Kyle Mar. 31, 2011
  12. Folks, All of my hardware in the other thread has been ordered. I have one more major purchasing decision to make, and that's which version of Win. 7 to buy. I have spent close to two hours scrutinizing what Microsoft has supplied, and I'm more confused than ever. I want to keep this simple. All I want is the Win. 7 operating system and have it supplied on a DVD. I am planning on using OpenOffice for creating all of the business-related documents from here on out. The product descriptions for all of the Window 7 variants are LOUSY. Over here Old Version link it talks about the "Old" version of a "System Builder." What the heck is a "system builder?" Is it more rudimentary than a typical OS? Do I have to have Win. XP already installed on my hard drive, or can I install this "Old" build of Win. 7 on a fresh hard drive? And how is this "Old" version different from the "Full" version? The "Full" version states that it has SP1 already integrated into it, but if I get the cheaper "Old" version, will I still be able to use Windows Upgrade to get all of the latest updates, including SP1 and others? With MS' history of security issues, I sure hope so! And one more product to bring up, and no, what I'm about to say is not a contradiction, that's if one keeps in mind the severe budget constraints we have. I'm a teacher, and my school district has a special deal worked out whereby I can get Windows 7 Professional Upgrade for $80, which is a substantial savings. I may only be able to get it as a direct download, but at that price, I would do it. That said, my concerns about going with the Professional Upgrade are these: ---do I have to already have Win. XP installed, or can I install it on a fresh hard drive? ---or do I have to have the "plain" version of Windows 7 installed first? My hope is that the Professional Upgrade already has the regular "plain" Win. 7 operating system on it, along with the enhanced content. Whatever the case may be, if I do the direct download route, can I save it on a flashdrive, and use that to put on my hard drive, or do I have to burn it on a disc? Please note that I can only burn CDs on my CD/DVD player, so if the direct download is too large to fit on a CD, what options do I have? I'm assuming that like the "Old" and "Full" versions of the regular Win. 7, that the Professional Upgrade version is also "OEM." Well, what exactly does "OEM" mean? I've read several very brief descriptions of it, simply stating that "OEM" does NOT already include drivers for likely devices. Which is fine by me, as long as the solution to this is as simple as I think it is: simply look up the latest BIOS and drivers for each piece of equipment that's to be installed in one's system, download it in advance of the day of the build, and have said BIOS/drivers ready to install from a flash drive. Is my thinking on this correct? I apologize for all of these specific questions, but to me, the writeups I've encountered for each of these products is severely lacking. Any light you could shine on this too-gray situation would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance! Kyle Mar. 31, 2011
  13. Time's draining fast on my being able to get parts at the prices listed. Here's my "final" list of parts (I think). If anyone sees anything glaringly bad, please let me know as soon as possible! Thanks for all of your input. I decided to go with an ATI graphics card in the end. What cinched it for me were all of the mods/hacks that will enable Nvidia's PhysX to work on an ATI graphics card---no additional Nvidia card needed! I'll look into this a LOT more carefully later. MOTHERBOARD ----------- ASRock 870 EXTREME3 AM3 AMD 870 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard $89.99 ---Free Shipping My link ============================ PROCESSOR --------- AMD Phenom II X4 840 Edition Deneb 3.2 GHz 4x512 KB L2 Cache Socket AM3 95W Quad-Core Processor - Retail HDX840WFGMBOX (Black) $109.99 ---FREE Super Saver Shipping via Amazon.com My link ============================ RAM --- A-DATA XPG Gaming Series v2.0 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model AX3U1600GB2G9-DG2 $49.99 after mail-in rebate ---Free Shipping ---it has a LIFETIME guarantee ---needs BIOS adjustment to get full speed, but this is typical for RAM My link ============================ GRAPHICS CARD ------------- HIS Radeon HD 6850 1 GB (256bit) GDDR5 Eyefinity Display Port HDMI 2x DVI (HDCP) Retail (RoHS) PCI Express X16 2.1 Video Card H685F1GD $149.99 Price after rebate ---FREE Super Saver Shipping via Amazon.com My link ============================ HEATSINK -------- Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler, RR-B10-212P-G1 $21.49 8.96 Shipping and Handling My link ============================ HARD DRIVE ---------- 300 GB from Jack!!! ============================ CD/DVD DRIVE ------------- LITE-ON Black 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA 24X DVD Writer LightScribe Support $22.99 ---FREE shipping with promo code EMCKGHA62, ends 4/4 My link ============================ DESKTOP TOWER -------------- Rosewill CHALLENGER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case, comes with Three Fans-1x Front Blue LED 120mm Fan, 1x Top 140mm Fan, 1x Rear 120mm Fan, option Fans-2x Side 120mm Fan $54.99 ---FREE shipping My link ============================ POWER SUPPLY UNIT ------------------- 600W Cool Master from Jack!!! ============================ TOTAL COST WITHOUT TOWER TOTAL COST WITH TOWER $453.10 $508.09 CONSULT THESE WEBISTES AFTER PURCHASING TO OPTIMIZE NEW PARTS http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/ram-memory-upgrade,2778-4.html
  14. I just want to make sure that if I internally mount my old 200 GB Maxtor hard drive that it'll be able to be easily slaved to the new 90GB solid state drive, since I want the SSD to be the master, and from which Windows 7 and all of my other office/game programs launch. I'm just planning on using the old Maxtor for storing the documents that I create from the programs that are stored on the SSD. Sorry to hear that the DDR RAM won't be any good. It's less than two years old.
  15. Zeealex, Thank you for your nicely detailed response. That's what I'm looking for! I'm happy to see that it looks like I avoided any systemic bottlenecks. Not bad for a first try at this type of thing, eh? I did overlook a couple of concerns that I have. Needless to say, I want to incorporate whatever I can from my old system into the new one. So, here are my questions regarding that: I have four sticks of Crucial 1 GB DDR, 184-POIN Unbuff Dimm 128MX6 RAM sitting in my old motherboard. Can I integrate any of this RAM into the new system? I see constant references to newer RAM and system specs by the term "DDR3." Is the technology divide now so great, that DDR3-based systems won't recognize/utilize regular DDR-based RAM, or...? Also, my old hard drive is a 200 GB Maxtor unit, that uses an Ultra ATA/100 connection. Will I need a special converter/connection to supply power to it, and to get its data to be processed by a newer motherboard, or...? While my Dell Dimension XPS desktop tower is no longer a "trendy" color, I feel that it's still possible to use it with all of the new components. It has 3 bays that are 5.25" wide across, and 4 bays that are 3.5" wide across. It's interior dimensions are 10 1/4" long and 6 3/4" wide. I was careful to measure from the innermost edge of the bays, and from the inside lip of the access panel. The width dimension is from wall to wall, as if a motherboard wasn't yet mounted. I'm assuming that my 56K PCI Data FAX modem card can be integrated into a newer motherboard. As "old" as this tech is, I like to have it in case I end up in a part of the country without a coaxial-based service. Is it safe for me to assume that it won't be an issue to connect the modem to the new motherboard, or...? Does the new motherboard have to supply a special type of slot for it, or...? Unfortunately, my power supply is 460 W. So, it'll have to go, Are PSU designed to fit a universal size, so if I take out the old PSU the new one will fit where it used to be at? How confident can I be that a 600 W power supply unit will be adequate for this system? I know that you're advising a 700 W one, but my concern is, being completely ignorant as to how PSU's work, is that it'll needlessly draw more power than what is needed for the system that I have. Is this something I should be concerned with? And I don't want to start a Nvidia v. ATI battle here, but I have only ever used ATI products. Most of the time, the Catalyst Control Center did very little to affect the appearance of the older games that I'm playing. Maybe that was due to expecting too much from it? For example, I wanted Ghost Recon to have x4 antialiasing, but in spite of using the .exe CCC generated, antialiasing was never applied. This holds true for most of the titles I wanted CCC to alter. And while there aren't a lot of titles that use Nvidia's PhysX system, I have to admit that when it's on, its impact on the sense of immersion is pretty enormous. Part of my wanting to try a Nvidia-based card is out of the fact that I've never owned one to begin with. And in regards to there being "better streaming" with an ATI card in combo with an AMD-based processor, does that mostly apply to watching videos? While I don't have the silky-smooth video framerates now, I certainly don't feel like I have to have something better than what I've experienced yet either. I don't need to see crystal clear clarity on an actress' face so that if I wanted to, I could zoom in far enough to fall into the pores on the skin of her nose. I want solid performance in a game, and since the human eye is already tricked into seeing fluid motion at 24 frames per second, I'm pretty sure that I'd be happy if my system can maintain 30 frames a second with PhysX turned all the way on. On the other side, if I get higher framerates and less power consumption from an ATI-based card, then that's something that I'm willing to entertain right now since most titles don't have PhysX incorporated into them anyway. Initially, I was looking at ATI cards. Here are my top three choices, in order from the one I liked the most to the least. Let me know what you think of the selections, and I might back out of my Nvidia-selection. ATI --- MSI R6850 Cyclone PE/OC Radeon HD 6850 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card with Eyefinity $174.99 after mail-in rebate MSI R6850 link MSI R5770 Hawk Radeon HD 5770 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card $129.99 after mail-in rebate MSI R5770 Hawk Radeon link Sapphire Radeon HD 6850 1 GB GDDR5 VGA/DL-DVI-I/SL-DVI-D/HDMI/Display Port PCI-Express Video Card 100315L $160 Product Dimensions: 6.5 x 3.5 x 11.5 inches Sapphire Radeon HD 6850 link In regards to burning CD's or DVD's... In all of the years of owning my system, I bet that I didn't burn more than a dozen discs. I don't see much point inf creating a data-plate that will be oxidized and useless in 3-5 years anyway. I decided to invest in a few external hard drives, and with thumbdrives being so cheap, that's probably my future choice for storing data externally. I don't think I'd have enough courage to try and fool around with a Phenom II X2 black edition's BIOS, which is something I've never done before. A costly mistake there would likely result in my not being able to replace said part. Unless you convinced me otherwise.
  16. I spent the past two days looking HARD at what it might cost me to purchase parts on my own, and then have a friend help me put it together. Please feel free to look over the following information, and if you detect any systemic bottlenecks, or where I could get the listed part for less, or if there's a part that's likely to be defective, don't hesitate to let me know. Most of the following prices expire on Mar. 31. Also, if someone could help me figure out with greater accuracy how large a Power Supply Unit I would need for this system. I think that I would need to go with a 600 W unit. If that seems a little high, it's because I've been told to "add 100 W" to whatever the initial estimate is, because it's far better to go with a larger figure than a smaller one. MOTHERBOARD ------------------- ASRock Socket AM3/AMD 870/Hybrid CrossFireX/SATA3&USB 3.0/A&GbE/ATX Motherboard 870 Extreme3 $89.99 ------$13.99 for 3 yr. warranty Motherboard link ============================ PROCESSOR --------- AMD Phenom II X4 840 Edition Deneb 3.2 GHz 4x512 KB L2 Cache Socket AM3 95W Quad-Core Processor - Retail HDX840WFGMBOX (Black) $109.99 -------no warranty desired ---Buy with Corsair RAM & save $25 (see below) Processor link ============================ RAM --- Corsair Vengeance 8 GB ( 2 x 4 GB ) DDR3 1600 MHz (PC3 12800) 240-Pin DDR3 Memory Kit for Intel Core i3, i5, i7 and AMD Platforms SDRAM CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9 $99.99 -------no warranty desired ---Buy with AMD Phenom II X4 480 and save $25 (see above) RAM link ============================ GRAPHICS CARD ------------- EVGA 01G-P3-1467-AR GeForce GTX 465 (Fermi) Superclocked 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card $179.99 after mail-in rebate card -------no warranty desired as it has a LIFETIME warranty by default ---Size & power concerns: Width: 9.5" Height: 4.376" Minimum of a 550 Watt power supply. (Minimum recommended power supply with +12 Volt current rating of 38 Amps.) Graphics card link ============================ HEATSINK (unnecessary?) -------- Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler, RR-B10-212P-G1 $29.99 Heatsink link ============================ HARD DRIVE ---------- OCZ Technology Vertex 2 Series 90 GB SATA II 3.5-Inch Solid State Drive (SSD) OCZSSD3-2VTX90G $169.99 NOTE: Drives should be shipped with the latest firmware but make sure you double check. Upgrading the firmware of the drive is not supposed to cause any data loss however it is possible. The best thing to do if your planning to upgrade would be to install the drive as a secondary drive, use the OCZ utility to upgrade the firmware, and then (re)install the operating system and move everything over to the new drive. SSD link QUESTIONS: Why isn't there an option to purchase the 3 year warranty through Amazon.com? If purchased through Newegg.com, then... $169.99 -------$19.99 one year extended warranty. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-227-601&SortField=0&SummaryType=1&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Keywords=%28keywords%29&Page=1#SnetMark_120 *****ALTERNATE HARD DRIVE***** - - - - - - - - - - - Western Digital Caviar Blue WD5000AAKS 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive $39.99 ------$11.99 with 2 year extended warrranty ---do NOT buy from Amazon.com as they're having SERIOUS issues with how they ship their hard drives! NOTE: It not only has no instructions or software, it also does not have a connector cable, an IDE four-pin to SATA power adapter, or mounting screws. A jumper has to be setup when utilizing this hard drive with Windows XP. * The jumper must be installed prior to drive installation and partitioning. * After partitioning the jumper must not be removed. See here for more information! http://www.wdc.com/global/products/features/?id=7&language=1 ALTERNATE hard drive link ============================ CD/DVD DRIVE ------------- Asus 24x DVD±RW Drive DVD-RAM/±R/±RW 24x 8x 16x (DVD) 48x 32x 48x (CD) Serial ATA Internal OEM DRW-24B1ST (Black) $19.99 ------$7.99 warranty for two year including accidents (Liam!) CD/DVD Drive link ============================ SOUND CARD ----------- ASUS XONAR_DG 5.1 Channels PCI Interface Xonar DG Sound Card $19.99 after mail-in rebate card 2.99 shipping and handling Sound card link ============================ SeaSonic S12II 520 Bronze 520W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply $74.99 9.65 shipping and handling 520 W Seasonic link Need 600 W supply? OCZ ModXStream Pro Power Supply (600 W) $68.94 6.95 shipping and handling 600 W OCZ Power Supply link I'm debating if even the heatsink is necessary, but it's important that I build a system that's going to LAST for five years or more. Few things are harder on a computer than heat, so... Some might wonder why I'm going with a Solid State Drive rather than a typical hard drive. The reason for that is pretty simple: our computer is centrally located in our home, out in the open. It's important to my wife and I that our two little children see that "computer time" is "public time." What we do can be scrutinized by all. That said, these two little kids are bumping into things all of the time, including our desktop's tower. Having a SSD will make it far less likely that a bump will ruin it. Plus, I want my programs to load up super-fast. I'm in the process of getting a (hopefully very low) estimate on purchasing Windows 7, and it's my understanding that SSD's work very well with the new OS. Again, any timely input on this would be highly valued. I had wanted to not exceed $500, but I'm over that amount by about $240. Roughly $40 of that could be eliminated by getting rid of the warranties that I would like to have to cover my butt. Yet, if there are any warranties that I've listed that you feel would be highly unnecessary to have on an item, let me know about that as well. Thank you! Kyle Mar. 27, 2011
  17. Bughler, Thanks for the detailed, step-by-step advice. Here's what happened... I had my wife at the speakers, so that she could confirm whatever it is I might hear. I tried everything you advised. Nothing stood out. Till I took out the external speakers' plugs from the soundcard, and plugged my headphones directly into it, trying out each of the Riviera's holes. I could hear all of the static, and high pitched squealing in 3 of the holes. So, is this a strong indicator that the sound card isn't functioning properly, or...? And if it is the soundcard, then I'm not tempted to go as cheap as I did on the Riviera, but then getting a more expensive one opens up a can of worms. When you look at a the cost of just a new soundcard, wouldn't I be better off going for a whole new system? I've already been looking at parts, as I have an associate who is willing to help me put the pieces together. I've seen references to some motherboards' properties that mention something like "high fidelity sound," does that mean that the soundcard is integrated into the motherboard, or...? And, if there are motherboards with soundcards integrated into them, am I better off going that route for my sound system, or should I get a dedicated soundcard, or...?
  18. Ugh! Not what I wanted to hear. So even with the driver uninstalled, all of these terrible gremlin-noises are possible to be heard when the power's on to the speakers? My system's 8 years old. It operated fine for most of those years, so the fact that this is happening, would you take it as a pretty good indicator that the system's just wearing out? I'm not in any kind of position of swapping one part out for another, especially if one considers that it could be a wire that's going faulty, and none of the other hardware that it's connected to. This mess sounds a lot like searching for a needle in a haystack. What would you recommend? Trying to isolate the culprit(s), or looking at getting a new system (even if it's a used/refurbished one)?
  19. With all of my experiences of installing/uninstalling soundcards, I've never had a set of speakers produce any sound if the driver has been uninstalled. Supposedly, the Turtle Beach driver is gone from my system right now, yet, for the very first time ever, my speakers are emitting static, and a "thrum" sound every time I press a key on my keyboard. How is this even possible if the soundcard has its driver removed? My gut reaction is that portions of it are still "stuck" in the system. And the 5.1 speaker system that I have was purchased just this past November. If I could just get rid of the sound issues, I wouldn't even have to worry about scrounging up the funds for a new system. I really don't need it. Thanks for your offer for help. I'm going to see what Turtle Beach says before I proceed any further. More as I know it.
  20. One more question. And yes it's pretty desperate, as it would require a TON of hours to do, but.... Over the 8 years that I've owned this system, I've had to reinstall the OS on it three times. If my memory serves me correctly, Dell's instructions when doing this were to install the soundcard's driver immediately after the OS was installed. One technician was quite adamant about this, although he never specified why. For over 5 years that SoundBlaster Audigy 2 served me quite well, before it began to decline. Do you think that taking this drastic step is highly probable to finally fix my problems with the Riviera, or...?
  21. Just when I got "comfortable" with my less than perfect sound quality from my Turtle Beach Riviera sound card, my system today simply lost the capability to play any "real" sounds, whether from a video or a game. All I hear is nonstop static, and, when the sound driver's installed, a loud steady squeal from my left front speaker. More details on that here: My link If there is any advice regarding fixing the above, please post it at the supplied thread. Any help's appreciated! But I have a feeling that Turtle Beach's Refund Dept. is going to give my funds back once they get their soundcard back. If I can't track down what's causing the speakers to still generate static, even though there is (supposedly) no sound drivers on it anymore, I seriously question what the fruits of my money and time are going to be if I invest in another soundcard, so... I'm considering acquiring a different computer system altogether, with one major caveat. My funds are SERIOUSLY tight, and if I go this route, I'll have to try and purchase a used system. I'd love to keep my current system, even though it's old (2003) I have no issues with running games such as STALKER Shadow of Chernobyl on medium-high settings, but that blasted sound issue that's been dogging me...!!!!! My know-how with building a PC from scratch is too low for me to consider doing it. I wish that I could cannibalize some portion of my Dell, but I happened to buy it several months before the switch from AGP to PCI took place, so there's no point in going that route. Here's what I'd like to have/not have: A PCI-based (dual-core?) system that performs better than my current ATI x1950 Pro (I have it paired with 4 GB of RAM). At least Win. XP as the OS. Vista=no way. 2-300 GB of memory. I won't need a monitor. I won't need speakers. I won't need a keyboard nor a mouse. How much RAM? Can't say for sure, but, if possible, a system that could handle STALKER Call of Pripyat (STALKER's last sequel) at a med.-high settings. I wouldn't mind purchasing a used custom-built system, as, in my opinion, somebody who is dedicated enough to putting their own system together is most likely pouring a ton of time and research into getting the maximum bang for their buck. In such situations though, the point is trustworthiness... And now the kicker. And I am being serious. Maybe seriously deluded, but my sense of perspective on this is pretty dim, and I have no clue on how quickly system's depreciate in value. Please keep in mind that I haven't purchased a system since 2003...! I'm looking at spending, hopefully, somewhere between $3-400 for such a system. Maybe, if a miracle happens, up to $500, but that would take a miracle. All of the above said, what would you advise...? Are there websites that specialize in selling used desktops (without monitors/speakers/keyboard/mouse) that are trustworthy and dependable? Do you feel that it's better to purchase a refurbished system from a Big Name computer producer rather than buy a used Big Name system from the owner? Any and all advice, recommendations, and links are greatly appreciated. Heck, if you have an "old" system that's newer than mine and outperforms it, and you're willing to sell it, don't be hesitant to PM me. And if you're going to laugh at the sum of money that I mentioned above, try to make it a snicker, OK? Ideally, a solid solution can be offered up to fix my soundcard issues, and if that can be done, then I can save the funds.
  22. Need help...AGAIN! Please read my email to Turtle Beach and see if any kind of remedy crosses your vast minds... > As of today, I'm completely convinced that there is something physically > wrong with the Riviera card. > > I have tolerated the inadequacies of this product for months now. Even > with the best installation method used (where I installed, then > uninstalled the recommended C-Media Electronics driver, and then > installed Turtle Beach's official Riviera driver, I still had static and > other noises if I elevated the volume to 40% or higher, and this was > even after making a score of adjustments to the PCI latency as well. > The pops/cracks were less audible through the headphones, so that's what > I've been exclusively using. > > And then this morning, inexplicably, a high and loud pitch was being > emitted from the right front speaker. I plugged back in the headphones, > and that was producing the high pitch as well. Whenever a sound source, > such as a video was played, or a mission started up in Ghost Recon, the > high pitch would be heard, along with a ton of static. Other sounds, > whether listened to over the headphones or the 5.1 speaker system, could > not be heard at all. > > Today, I have once again uninstalled, and reinstalled every > recommendation that was spelled out in the previous emails. I've > triple-checked the driver's removal by using Advanced SystemCare, Driver > Sweeper and the official CleanPCI.exe. Even after super scrubbing for > driver remnants, I still had the speakers producing pops and crackles, > although softer in sound, and the only other advantage at that point was > that the high pitched and loud squeals had stopped--when I tried playing > videos/ games, there would be no sounds. But the said squeal would > return as soon as either the C-Media Electronics or Turtle Beach's > drivers were installed. > > Now, I'm at the point where there are no media sounds discernable at any > volume, I only hear the ruckus of the snaps, crackles and pops, and with > the added "bonus" of a loud ear piercing squeal. > > What options are left to me at this point? I have spent many, MANY > hours just struggling with removing/installing the drivers, and there's > virtually nothing in it for me and my family other than a > headache-inducing pitch to be heard for it. > > Thank you for your time and consideration on this matter, > > Kyle > Mar. 23, 2011 Then I received an email from Turtle Beach, the kind technician that I was working with is forwarding it on to their Refunds Dept., and that I should be hearing from them soon. That still leaves me a problem, so I've posted my response to the technician's last reply below. If you can think of anything that could help me, let me know... I'm hoping that you can assist me with one more thing. These speakers of mine should not be producing any noise at this point. I have uninstalled the drivers, and ran several Registry scans, and they're not picking anything up. Yet, every time I have ever installed/uninstalled a sound card, once the driver's removed, the speakers lose all ability to produce noise. But mine still are, which leads me to believe that for some reason, parts of the driver are still on my system. Whatever ends up happening in regards to a return/refund/getting a new card, if I can't get the remnants of the old driver off of my system, that's likely to cause me more issues. Again, I've run Turtle Beach's official uninstaller, with no success in getting rid of the static. Any advice?
  23. Got my way up to Mission 3, and I just can't spare the time anymore to struggle through this game. There are two main reasons: (1) The AI...They're infuriating. Ubi should've pushed the development hard on this end. From friendly AI crossing your path, while you're firing, to enemy AI able to somehow see you through large potted plants, shoot through said pot, and drop you with one round. For about twenty minutes, all I did was maneuver my way stealthily to a potted plant of one elevation or another, crouch behind the clay portion of it, and two seconds later that pot would shatter and so would my head. That's pretty amazing. If there were more than two potted plants in an area, I avoided it altogether if I could. Now something's wrong with a game design if the player is busy thinking about that. (2) The urban environment of New Mexico was amazing to behold, but a severe tactical stranglehold was placed on the player by limiting his options to only street and alley combat. All of those buildings, and not a single one can be entered. That too, is pretty amazing. Having played Combat Mission, and Combat Mission Shock Force, two very hardcore military simulators, there's just no way that soldiers of any calibre are going to completely ignore using structures for cover and concealment. Now, I'm not expecting Ubi to make every building in the city accessible, but some of those structures could've been hollowed out, particularly in areas that are just "prime" for sorties. So, once more I've uninstalled the game without completing it. I'm confident that the multiplayer aspect of it would've been topnotch, but since I'm not in a position to commit time towards playing online, that's not an option to me. Too bad. I really wanted to love this title like I did GR, but it's pretty clear to me now, that it's not going to happen. *sniff-sniff* Have any of you had such frustrations with this title?
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