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Posts posted by RooK

  1. Breaking-in an engine seems to be the most controversial as well as the least understood thing in r/c cars. They know they need to do it, but there is no one true way to accomplish it. I'll just follow the engine instructions for now, couldn't hurt too much, if at all.

    XRW, yep, was the low speed needle. Richened it to around a 1/4 turn and it ran like a scalded dog. I still haven't got the idle right, but it's very close.

  2. Firewire, you're on the right track having a good after-market board as the base for your system. If you look in the bios for it, you should see a multitude of options on how to increase vcore, vmem, fsb, as well as the multiplier or anything else they put in bios. All those can be used to overclock your cpu/system.

    If you raise your cpu multiplier (this will require you cutting and rejoining some bridges on your cpu), you can make the cpu itself go faster. If you up the fsb, you basicly overclock the whole system. It makes the agp slot, memory and everything work at a faster pace along with overclocking your cpu. The bad part to this, is it can get unstable fast, especially with low quality ram.

    Another note: your 2200 I assume, is on the tbred A core, thus it is at the peak of its limits allready and runs pretty hot compared to normal athlons. If you overclocked it, it wouldn't go very far at all I'm assuming. Best for overclocking atm are the 1600-1800 paliminos an 2400 tbred b cores.

    As for graphics, couldn't be simpiler. Just do a search on google for powerstrip. It's free and allows you to overclock your card among many other things. When going up on this, be careful and go slow and play a game between each change. A card may surf the internet 50mhz over default, but only play games at 25mhz or less, else it crashes.

    Lastly, this is risky and there is a possibility you'll tear something up. The main thing to look out for is heat. If your cpu starts going over 40c at idle, either quit overclocking it, or get a better heatsink/fan combo. If your graphics keep crashing/getting artifacts, lower the overclock. It can fry the cards memory easily. Always be sure to make small increments and as few changes each time as possible.

  3. Nightcrawler, could have just said that 'overclocking' means to make your components go faster. For example, my gfx card is overclocked from 275mhz to 300mhz and my cpu is overclocked almost 200mhz over it's original speed, thus raising the clock cycle (had to tie into his post some way :lol:).

  4. Crimson, here's the deal: Anything an Intel cpu can do, an AMD one can as well. So just go the affordable route and use an AMD cpu.

    As for psus, if they say P4 power supply, it means the additional special connector required for the P4 mbs is included. AMD just uses the mb connector to power its cpus (like all pre-P4 cpus did), so basicly any 300w (at least) or more powerful psu will work, P4 ready or not.

    WhiteKnight, I believe the one with blue leds is another version with a slightly different name, and they charge you a little more for the leds as well.

  5. XRW, yes it's cold here in Ky, around 40-30F lately. Everything I've seen, says to richen on cold days due to the denser air. Maybe richen the low speed needle? Might try that next time, too cold atm to run it.

    Velocity, never really noticed a smell from my fuel. It's more of a light funky smell, not very strong at all. Everything I've read also says to break-in the engine with the fuel you're gonna run all the time, so I went ahead and bought a gal of Red Alert 20%... They had O'Donnel (duratrax brand as well) and some Sidewinder, but both were in only quart sizes.

  6. With the stuff I bought, got it up and running. Still having problems keeping it running though... It either wants to take off like a rocket or die. I can't set the idle right either, because of this. Setting it to where it will run makes the clutch engage, setting it lower makes it run for 5 secs then die. Gotta work on that.

    Don't sniff the fuel? oops :P That was one of the first things I did when I opened it... but I didn't seem to get high off it (Red Alert 20%). Did you inhale your lungs full :lol:

    I've been painting up a RC10GT Crowd Pleazer body, so maybe I'll post pics of that when I get it finished.

    I'd rather not buy off ebay if I can help it. I know a hi-torque servos are expensive, but there are cheaper ones, no?

  7. CS itself isn't a bad game, it just seems to attract a bunch of rich kids, with their parents paying the DSL bill, so they can use cheats and ###### other people off :D

    I prefer the FA or DoD HL Mods to CS any day. At least in those you can use tactics and not spray-n-pray.

  8. If I'm playing and you get knocked out of the sky with no bullets being fired, it's because I was on your tail and got a tad too close.

    Damn target fixiation... :lol:

    Stalker: Multi, but only with other people playing demos. BTW, I'm sure a P39's 37mm nose cannon would have no trouble penetrating an F22's skin.

    Yoda: I have never really thought of it that much. I've always jumped in the cockpit, hit the throttle and take off :) Try doing it with a P39 some to get a feel for doing it fast (P39 has tripod gear, so you're level on the ground). Talking about bad visibility at takeoff, go hop in a FW-190... ARGGG!

  9. Yes, there's a MP demo. Only had 2 planes last I checked: IL2 and P39.

    Well, unless you locked on a missle a mile away, you'd be no match for WWII fighters. They can out-turn a F22 cause they're going so much slower :D

    I got into WWII sims because of the fact you can shoot and kill someone without seeing them in modern sims. In WWII you had to get close and risk crashing into your victim to get a kill. MGs and small cannons aren't very powerful :)

  10. I'm 18...

    BTW, no one mentioned Captain Power (remember the thing where you could shoot at the people on your TV?) I was really young when that was about.

    Anyway, in a group with older people is much more to my liking. I want to kill these kids who get on irc/forums and talk like "wat is u up 2?". I regularly threaten bans if I'm an op :wall:

    But anyway, GR is much like the flight sim community. More talk about actual topics rather than random thoughts and pi*ssing contest :sheep:

  11. Here's my take on a hacker...

    Anyone who sends a virus, DoS' a server (just sending lots of server request and flooding the server from lots of pcs (see trojan)), Wall Hacks in CS (it's a program that exploits loopholes), or uses a backdoor program (ala trojan) is either some peon who got it and is having fun using the program to do bad things or is a scripter/programmer who actually wrote a program, based on known loopholes and limitations to cause something to happen.

    A hacker, imo, is someone, whom without prior help (victim doesnt have a trojan/backdoor), finds a way forcefully into a system and starts doing as he wishes. Such as what happened to this server and perhaps locogamer.

    To do this, a hacker has to be quite talented and know how protocols on a computer work and have a lot of experiance, which is quite amazing. These guys that use that knowledge for good are the ones making high-end firewalls for corporations and trying to protect servers of various governments. If used for bad, however, it is quite devestating and truly sad. But still, these guys are talented, but more hackers are 'good' rather than 'bad'.

    So, next time you get a trojan, virus, or someone cheats in an online game, chances are it wasn't a hacker, just a bad chance at running, effectively, a nasty program.

  12. Forgot to ask... about setting the high-speed needle. It says not to over-tighten, but how far is that? When I screw it in, I get resistance (I assume it's the rubber o-ring). Should I stop here, or continue till I can screw it in any longer?

  13. XRW, allready got a lot of tools and such, just needed some specialty things like a glow plug wrench, and maybe some decent allen wrenches later.

    Got an RPM bumper, CVDs, fuel line and so on for it today. So, hopefully tommorrow, temperatures permiting, I'll try to run a couple more tanks through it.

    Also, picked up a Paasche airbrush as well as .7hp compressor. Used to have a Badger, but it got lost when I moved a while back, so thought I'd pick up a new one. At least painting bodies is fun. :D

    I think the most challenging thing will be tuning the carb. If I ever get it right (engine will probably be shot by then), at least I'm prepared for a new piston/sleeve or new engine.

    Know any low-priced, metal-geared, hi-torque servos? I'm wanting something around 80-100oz for the steering to get a little bit more out of it. I'm considering replacing this POS Ace Jaguar with a Airtronics MX3 as well.

  14. Post time and such, I might be able to join and try some of my skills (which suck). I'm on a 56k as well, but I heard it works good with 8 planes or less for 56kers.

    Yoda, you do have rudder control don't you (as in pedals or twisty stick)? I can give it full throttle with full rudder (left or right, depends on the way the engine spins) and stay aligned all I want just by altering the amount of rudder till I lift off. The torque effect goes away mostly after take-off.

  15. Yoda: Squadron?

    Anyway, as far as landings and so on, be gentle. I never had much troubled with the take-offs, just taxing cause I can't see cause of the huge nose. Have you yet to fly a the P39? In flight, it's more of a beast than any German plane.

    Be sure to use flaps and to get as much speed as possible on the ground (start pulling up right before you run out of runway) and keep the nose pushed down to enforce this. Maybe even use WEP if you need extra speed.

    If your plane starts turning by itself, which I assume you mean, give it some rudder. Also, have you found the usefulness of trims yet? :) If your plane, starts yawing to the left, right, up or down from a level attitude, just give it a little trim and straighten it up. Quite useful. I think the keys are ctrl + up, left, right or down arrow. The only times you'll need left or right are to counter-act engine torque.

  16. Anyone here own a nitro stadium truck? I got an AE RC10GT RTR Plus for xmas, and it has been nothing but a hassle so far.

    First problem: Got it home, and had to wait to get some fuel. When I finally did, found out the fuel tank was blocked, and would need a new one. Though, after calling AE, they sent me a new one free, now the fuel tubing is too short, and I can't run it cause it's having air leaks and making it unable to tune because it idles and dies or idles so fast it runs off. It's had maybe half a tank through it so far.

    Second, the Throttle End adjustment on the controller is broke (known defect), and they expect me to send them this remote and wait for a replacement.... Maybe after I've had it running a while, I'll get it replaced, but not yet.

    Any words of encouragement or some tips on how to get this thing up to expectations? It's my first, true RC vehicle, but I thought I might as well jump into nitro (what I really want) rather than investing all that money into motors, chargers and batteries, when really, all I'd carry over is the learning of handling and how the radio works (which both are simple enough, seeing as they work much like real cars and other radios).

    It may have only ran for 3mins tops, but I loved every second of it :) Off tommorrow to buy some new fuel line, a temp gauge and maybe something else if it suits me.

  17. Definately a terrible thing. Anytime file names are changing on your system, or certain 'protection' apps go wierd, it's definately something to look into. At the least, a format is in order.

    Sounds mostly like the work of a virus how files were changing and converting, or at the most a trojan. It would be very rare that anyone not running a popular 24/7 server would get truly hacked.

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