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Posts posted by RooK

  1. I know that I need a new mobo, CPU (would like to stay with Intel unless someone can convince me otherwise .... I am open to suggestions), and memory.

    My first PC was a Intel 486Dx2, 2nd was an Intel P133, 3rd was an Intel Celeron 700, 4th is this rig with an AMD Athlon. I am not going back to Intel anytime soon. AMD's cpu are cheaper, usually faster at a lower mhz (see my sig? Mine is 1628mhz and beats a 2ghz P4) and have a better upgrade path. Intel seems to make people want to constantly buy new boards to upgrade to newer CPUs.

    I run Windows2000 Pro now and will probably install that on the new system unless someone can give me a good reason to go with XP .... or XP Pro.

    Win2kPro should be fine, plenty here use it. WinXP is still more of a gamers machine and has better compatibility overall, which means less work. Other than that, its preference.

    My problem is I have never built a PC before.  I have installed RAM, PCI cards, hard drives, etc.  It's just that I am a little nervous about installing a mobo, power supply and CPU.  I've heard horror stories about people blowing up thier CPU or mobo with faulty installations.  :unsure:

    Same here when I built this PC back in August. If you can get your hands on magazines like Maximum PC, they usually have specials on how to upgrade/build pcs. But mainly, it's screwing the mb to the case, plugging in wires here and there. I don't know any sites offhand, but a search of 'pc building' will surely bring up something on Google. As long as you follow instructions supplied with the parts you buy, you should be fine.

    As for a mobo ... I would like something that will last a few years and will allow me to upgrade my CPU and RAM without buying a new mobo.  I don't know too much about FSB speeds.  I would assume that a 500 FSB is better than a 400 FSB.  Can anyone shed some light on that for me?  :(

    If you go AMD, any of the boards with an NForce2 chipset would be great. They're currently the fastest chipsets and offer two things Intel doesn't: dual channel DDR and SATA. One allows for better performance, the other for future hdd tech. Plus, they currently hold the highest overclocks as well as the best 3dmark 2003 score (even over Intel). FSB, or rather what they list, is bs. Look at the true system fsb. AMD runs at 133 (266), 166 (333) and soon 200 (400). Intel runs at 100 (400) and 133 (533). Intel's run at 4 bits of data a clock cycle and AMD's at 2, thus you get your numbers. In the end, it doesn't really matter. Just pick the best FSB available for the cpu you choose in your price range, AMD and Intel are 50/50 in benches for the highend cpus anymore.

    I don't think that I will be overclocking but I would like to have the system be cool enough so I don't run into problems.  That being said, I assume I will need a few fans.

    As far as overclocking, if you choose, they're basicly equal now. AMD Bartons overclock over 1ghz as well Intels. Fans: get some to fill the exhaust and intakes on your case. Purchasing a good heatsink for the cpu is the most important thing however.

    $250 is enough to get you a 2400XP ($132) (2ghz actual, but compares to a 2.4ghz P4) as well as an Epox 8RDA+ Nforce2 mb ($112) with all the trimmings. It will definately last you some time. Prices are from Newegg.com, I've ordered parts for this pc from them twice. Excellent prices and service.

  2. Fact is, not all the money is 'his' as you would call it. It's all tied up in assests, mainly stocks. He could have that much pocket money only if he found someone to purchase all the stocks etc. from him.

    As for charities and so on, doesn't really matter unless you know the guy. I don't know if he's selfish or not, but most reasons people with a lot of money donate is for tax reasons. Whether he's doing it for that or just to be doing it, I don't know/

  3. What gets on my nerves is that when she got the computer, it boasted how it was built for both Me and 2000 pro.

    The main thing is: If you didn't build it or it didn't come with it preinstalled, forget about messing with it. Prefab pc's are a pain to change anything on, the software/hardware is extremely limited and will only lead to heartaches.

    Least you could do is reinstall it properly. It doesnt take but a fraction of one day, but it's better than the constant crashes and problems you'll have out of it till then.

  4. Yeah, if you're going to spend the money, spend enough to get a decent card. Get a ti4200 or 8500 (like mine, just skip the 9000). They're both good cards and will serve you for quite some time.

    Whiteknight: I'd hate to say several years on anything anymore. My first pc lasted 5 years... any pc today is good if it can last 2 years.

  5. One thing I always stress to new drivers: USE THAT HORN! It's there for a reason: to warn other motorists of impending doom. So use it and be obnoxious about it! It's ok, really. They would do the same thing.

    Reminds me of my Driver's Ed instructor. Some woman started backing up at a stop light, him behind her. He held on the horn and had nowhere else to go, so she just backed into him.

    Makes you wonder what people think sometimes, eh?

  6. I believe he was on the Fox News last night. Seems some stations don't want to play his song, but to me, it pretty much sums up what this war is about right now. Clinton made a big mess being infactuated with himself and White House interns and Bush is now trying to clean up the mess...

  7. Are you talking about a LCD monitor, or a PC contained within the monitor? The former you should be able to find anywhere, the latter you'll have to look around. It seems IBM made some at one time, I also remember seeing a few at CompUSA way back. Best bet is too give a look around to everyone who assembles/sales PCs and see if they might have a model that is similar.

    Upgradability on them is severly limited, not to mention expensive since it has an LCD screen. I Think you'd be best off just buying the LCD monitor and a seperate, compact PC unit.

  8. Well, just don't tailgate anyone. If they slam on the brakes on purpose and you hit em, it's your fault.

    I ride with my sister out of convenience sometimes, but the way she drives, getting home in one piece is no small accomplishment.

  9. OK, not that knowledgable about Intel's side of the overclocking world, but, as you stated, pushing the fsb to 200 should equal 400ddr. Even on an Intel system. Chances are, it's also pushing your pci/agp buses. The only chipset I know of that locks pci/agp is the Nforce2 for AMD cpus. Work up slowly, testing for problems, and download Prime95. If it shows errors in the Torture Test, back off or change something. Don't just jump in huge 33mhz increments. Also, take note that some cpus oc better than others.

    You will have to mess with cpu voltages, ram voltages and ram timings to be able to go as far as you want and keep things stable. Take note that this will void all warranties and could possibly fry components. It does shorten the life of them. Ram, when overclocking as far as your are, needs to be high quality. Only go with well known namebrands. Corsair's XMS series is probably the best and most used, while other brands such as Nanya, Mushkin and OCZ (some of the late good stuff) will also work. Make sure the ram is CAS 2 rated, not 2.5.

    About picking mbs, I have no idea what models or chipsets you are choosing, but how are you basing your decisions? I hope its not a random pick based on features. Look at reviews of boards being overclocked online. The names you'll see pop up most often on the overclocking lists are Epox, Asus, and Abit.

    You should be able to hit 3ghz with good air cooling, if you have proper fan, heatsink and ventilation. Water cooling is not something I would suggest jumping into. It's expensive, sometimes no more effective than good air cooling, and you take the risk of a fitting coming loose or a part breaking and frying your whole system.

    Good Luck.

  10. Dark Ranger, unfortunately for Nvidia, their card isn't that grand. Its trying to compete with high-clock speed ram and chip compared to architecture and bandwidth. Fact is, if Ati slapped a better gpu/ram on their card, it would go even faster. The Nvidia card is bandwidth limited by its own design. I think they were planning on Ati not being able to squeeze 400mhz out of the 9700 core. Perhaps they have a 256bit brethren in the oven...

  11. I have a PC that still uses an AT PSU, and they are completely different. Also, might want to note that ATs are generally larger and more square compared to ATX rectangular design.

    From what I've seen in the past few years, it would be some work to find an AT PSU for sale, just about everyone carries an ATX though.

  12. The main two problems are refresh rates and ghosting. Refresh rates are locked around 60hz if I remember right, which in itself isn't that bad of a thing.

    Ghosting it where you run into problems. The LCD can't keep up with the changes from the graphics card and leaves parts of the old image on the screen creating a 'ghost' effect. For office apps this is fine, but in games it's a constantly changing scene. Most of the high-end LCDs minimize this to where it is basicly unnoticable, but are you willing to pay $700 for a high-end 17" LCD just so you can lose some weight/space but still have a substandard picture?

  13. As far as lighting, try going for indirect flourescent, like accent lights. It provides a softer light, thus preventing a lot of glare. Another thing is a glare shield for monitors. They're a greyish tinted acrylic panel that attaches to monitors to give the 'flat screen' properties. Cost around $20.

  14. Try Wal-Mart or something similar for the canned air first. They buy in bulk and usually will have a cheaper price on that kind of stuff.

    I just use a small compressor that I used for airbrushing with a nozzle attachment. It works, just I might want to invest in a moisture trap to prevent frying components.

  15. Speaking of cleaning, decided I'd open the old box, especially since she's been running warm lately (40c typical). If only I knew!

    Opened her up and there were dust bunnies just about everywhere I couldn't see. Had to rip the front panel off and clean my filter as it was caked in a layer of dust. Next, pulled the fan off the heatsink. To my horror it also caked and the reason for the high temps. Used a compressor and vacuum and it's back in working order.

    Might need to check in on it more often :wacko:

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