Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by RooK

  1. DS, there are deals to be had on used Glocks. I saw one in 9mm sometime last October or November, used but looked new, for high $300. It was a 19 I believe.
  2. Way to revive a thread... Croatia imported the XD as the HS2000 ages before Springfield licensed the design, and for a lot cheaper. I still have some old magazines circa 2000~ that call it the HS2000. I believe the Croatians still make it for Springfield, the latter just charges higher prices for the end product to make a profit. Probably the only thing Springfield has had a hand in of the current flock is the new .45 model.
  3. Sadly, the History channel has its share of false info anyway. Like the time they said the .44 Magnum had a .44 caliber bullet.
  4. All that will happen is people will mailorder games in Texas, and the tax money will be lost. Texas has no right to tax merchandise not sold in their state. Personally, I find his other taxable items way more disturbing.
  5. I heard it on the radio this morning and was amused. It's the only thing keeping Disney afloat and it's where modern animation is going. Why didn't they buy it sooner?
  6. As long as you keep a coat of oil (just wipe the exterior down after using it), you shouldn't ever see rust. Even on bare metal. You could also pick up some touch-up cold blue at any gun shop or even Wal-Mart to put on any small spots. A quality hot blue job is something I'm not even willing to tackle because it requires some specialized equipment and time. Basically involving chemicals heated in a container, you dip the bare metal into it to set, remove and let rust. Brush off surface rust with steel wool and repeat until a deep finish is acquired. Cold bluing a firearm isn't really worth it. It's not as nice looking and won't last like hot bluing. You could also try the aerosol cans of gun finishes (moly or gunkote) offered by Brownells. You basically degrease the part, spray it, then heat it in the oven to cure. Good stuff if you don't mind matte or semi-gloss finishes, available in a lot of colors as well. It will last once oven cured.
  7. Actually, I pay the insurance bill on my car at the insurance office (even though it under my parents). They even put my name on the bill. We're with State Farm. By far the worse I've seen for me insurance wise on my own was Geico. They wanted almost $2700 for 6 months with a $700 down payment! Progressive would give me liability for about $130 a month.
  8. Looks good, you can definately tell it's a WWII-era just by looking at the saftey (the half-circle bulge you actuate it with). Enjoy. The 1911 and .45 are matches made in heaven. BTW, if you want to keep the metal nice and protected, an interesting thing I stumbled on years ago was waxing my blued firearms with a coat of carnuba car wax. BTW, I just stumbled onto a source for a used Colt Delta Elite slide/barrel/bushing in 10mm for my RIA at a reasonable price. We'll see how that goes.
  9. In KY, insurance rates are basically based upon age. Discounts can be had if your in High School and then College for good grades, and perhaps insurance company specific programs. I'm actually under my parents' insurance right now, so with full coverage on my '00 Grand Prix I'm paying just under $1200 a year. I'm 21 now, back when I was younger I was actually paying close to $2000 a year.
  10. No, the $30 is what your FFL charges to do the paperwork and background check to let you have the firearm. Think of it as courtesy pay for him, otherwise he'd be doing paperwork for nothing... but I'd still say $20 for transfers is about right. Some dealers will rape people on those prices, especially if they're the only game in town. Shipping will usually be included in the price or about $20 extra. This is why it's sometimes better just to have a local dealer order you something rather than order off the net. As for possessing an FFL, it's a pain anymore. Used to anyone could do it (both my uncles used to have one) but the ATF did a crack down over a decade ago and put a lot of restrictions on it. You now have to essentially have a store front with posted hours and be an actual business to get one, along with all the paperwork and record keeping. Some cities also have 'nice' zoning laws that screw you out of using your home as the place of business for a gun store, but federally it's legal. Whisper, those prices for the GI and XD wouldn't happen to be that friend you put me in touch with would it? I'd just about jump on the GI price right now.
  11. jchung, Glocks are the only 10mm firearm I know of that lets cases rupture at the head. I wouldn't mind a loose chambered rifle so much, but see as that gas will be funneled between my two hands, it's not a nice thought. Ruin, a good rule of thumb for finding a realistic ballpark on any firearm price is to just go with 85% of the MSRP. I know one of my local gun shops actually quotes all firearms you order (they don't stock) as generally 80% of MSRP.
  12. Corbon isn't exactly up to specs. The current 'hotloaders' out there are DT and Texas Ammo. Anyway, your hit or miss on whether you get an under supported chamber, but even the guys in the 10 ring at GT get Glock Smiley's when pushing loads. Case in point: Just be careful. Ryan: http://www.markii.org/images/10mm.jpg http://www.markii.org/images/10mmm.jpg As I've said, my only complaints are lack of aftermarket. EGW does make a sear for them, but it disables the firing pin stop.
  13. The XDs are nice and do come in .45 ACP now in the US. I've never shot one but they feel good in the hand. Almost bought a used one in .40 that I saw running in the mid $300s. If only they'd make a 10mm... As for the AK mount, yours had the side mount right? If so, any of the QD side mounts should work. Not much you can do about any loss of zero if it happens though, it's just a fact that AKs weren't meant for optics. If you don't have a side mount, you'll have to opt for a dust cover or rear sight (extended relief or red dot) solution.
  14. Witness fixed. Amazing what a 3/32 drill bit, a hacksaw, and a dremel can resolve in a matter of minutes. Eh? Cost: $0
  15. If you get a Glock, plan on buying a new barrel (kkm) for heavy loads. Seems people are having problems with the 'smile' on cases. I have nothing against Glocks other than their long trigger pulls, not exactly the best for target work or hunting. I may end up owning a G20 myself eventually though. Delta Elites are too expensive for a used gun, DWs are too expensive for an new gun, and the aftermarket goodies just don't exist for my Witness. Btw, lost the mag catch plunger on my Witness today. See what happens when firearm disassembly goes wrong? Going to try making one from the rear of a drill bit that is the perfect size. At least the 1911 only has one jumpy spring and it's easy to catch: The plunger when removing the safety. They're also easy to get replacement parts for...
  16. First, I recommended Ruin stick to part replacements at this point. Anyone who can disassemble the inards of a firearm can do a parts swap no sweat, especially in a 1911. No danger involved. Second, if you're taking a file to a sear you need your head examined. The only things you should be using are hard specialty stones that just polish the contact points. You also run function tests afterwards to make sure your trigger job is safe, like dropping the slide to make sure the hammer stays put. A Sistema is a Colt licensed product; it was assembled by a country and factory to Colt's specs and with their permission. So it is and isn't a Colt. But even Colt's of that period were just surface hardened and the slides/frames were spot hardened (like around the barrel lugs and frame holes, etc.). Er... So don't try shooting any .45 Super and only using +P .45 ammo when you have to is a good idea. Anyway, the point about hardened parts is whether they're surface hardened or deeper. If they're surfaced hardened than you can work through the hardening treatment while polishing the contact points and the soft metal will be exposed. At this point, your trigger job will seem safe at first but as the points wear during firing, the soft metal will deform to the point where it won't hold the hammer anymore. This causes problems identical to a bad trigger job where the gun slam fires, goes full-auto and so on because the sear doesn't catch the hammer. Even modern guns like my Witness have been rumored to have only surface hardening on the sear. You won't know until you start working on the part and it all of the sudden starts removing drastically more material as you polish. Anyway, that's another good reason to stick with aftermarket drop-ins. You can get a Wilson hammer and sear for around $45, why risk it? A McCormick hammer and sear combo can be had for even less. If you want to try you hand at fitting something, buy a Kart Easy-Fit barrel.
  17. That could work Ruin depending on what gunsmithing techniques you're wanting to play with. Just remember, it comes without the frame (if you get the full kit), which will set you back $100 and require an FFL dealer to obtain/purchase. Chances are you'll have to work with a local dealer to obtain it because very few will have them in stock.
  18. I think the $10k fine and 10 years in the pokie is enough to persuade anyone not to do it.... which seems to be the same punishment for all federal firearm offenses. The worst part is it's a felony if convicted and you can't own firearms anymore period.
  19. Making a .45 fullauto by tinkering with parts is nothing. Just file the top of the disconnector. Just don't complain when it light strikes or blows up because the gun fires out of lockup. It works by letting the hammer follow the slide home, not perfect but it works... and it's also highly dangerous to you and the firearm.
  20. When it comes to learning what sear angles/hammer hooks do and how they work, you have to see how they interact. The angles themselves are made to contact evenly and with as little friction as possible. The edges should be sharp though to provide a crisp feeling. Check out how the parts interact in these articles/diagrams/animations: http://www.m1911.org/full_1911desc.htm It should give you a better idea. There is also disassembly articles there, you can do it in the matter of minutes with a punch or similar small objects to push pins. When you get the grip safety, msh, and sear spring removed, play with and watch the internals and see how they interact and what does what. Most things I've learned about firearm internals is doing just that: watching the parts interact. At this point, I'd just advise you to stick to parts swaping and progress as you learn/see fit. No use in getting ahead of yourself.
  21. One man's column (that is really nothing more than a page of comments) doesn't exactly dictate the whole content of a magazine. When it comes to reviews, magazines will always be biased due to perks for the staff and they want the company to continue sending them guns to test... especially the new stuff. Reviews are best left to those who own the firearms or have experiences with them. Torture tests are informative though. The only magazines I find worth their price these days is Handloader and Rifle, mainly because they focus on information and not new toys being reviewed or sold. Ruin, what gunsmithing are you wanting to do? Detailed disassembly is beyond easy with a 1911 if you want to swap parts. Equally easy to put back together. If all your wanting is a trigger job, it basically involes using hard stones to polish the sear angles. You can even do this without permanently altering your Sistema by buying a new hammer/sear and saving the old ones (you can probably even get by not doing any polishing at all if you choose the right combo, just drop them in). Likewise you can install a 'drop in' beavertail for more comfort or looks, even though they're not as nice as the high swept models, they won't involve cutting the frame tang. I also hear Kuhnhausen's books on the 1911 are some must haves. Here's another jewel: http://www.blindhogg.com/ That shows some detaild techniques for various popular modifications. If you do ever want something like Novak or Bomars installed, just let a smith do it. That way you can get it done right and don't have to buy some expensive equipment. Want a diy frame treatment? Try stippling. It can be done with nothing more than a sharpened punch and hammer... or in this guys case, a hammer and sharpened nails (seriously!): http://webpages.charter.net/usmcsilver/refinish IMO, do non-permanent mods to the Sistema. If you want to play with cutting tools, get yourself a cheap, but good 1911: RIA, Springer GI, etc. That way you won't care as much if it gets hurt.
  22. What you'll find in there is basically a compilation of past GnA articles and resold for more money. I don't have much faith in the gun rags anymore, better to stick to the forums (1911forums.com or m1911.org) for info and advice. The latter site has some very nice info independent of the forum, such as detail stripping and indepth articles. One thing you will find interesting in some of those mag articles though are any tidbits on the gun's use and history. It isn't exactly the best for reviews and the like though.
  23. I'd buy it, if I had the money and it came with a 440 6 pack. The only other comment I can make... Damnit D/C, why did you kill of Plymouth and ruin the chance of bring back the 'Cuda and Roadrunner?
  24. Looks identical to mine, except for mines Hogue grips and parkerized finish. If your Sistema is made to specs (it is a Colt licensed copy, eh?) then you could drop in one of the many matched hammer/sear/spring kits avilable. Most run under $100 and offer 3-5lb trigger pulls depending on what you want.
  25. Ruin, get us some pics of that Sistema of yours. After I get some parts for my car, I'm trying to decide what to do to my 1911. I definately want a beavertail (along with a matching hammer and might as well get the sear too), but I'm wondering if I can get a 6" barrel and go the .45 Super route via Whisper's source. I think a 10mm conversion is out of the question. I really want a dedicated semi-auto hunting handgun and the .45 Super is very close to the 10mm with the longer barrel. Whisper, ask that FFL friend of yours how much he'd want for the Olympic 6" Matchmaster slide in SS (SAS-6A- $215 MSRP), or any other 6" slide with front and rear sight cuts if he can get it cheaper, shipped to KY.
  • Create New...