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Blog Entries posted by Ruin

  1. Ruin
    As always, a nice storage place:

    01) Selecting and Buying a Camera
    02) Photography 101: Terms, Definitions, Basic Principles - What Is a Camera and How Does It Work?
    03) Intro to Composition
    04) Intro to Lighting, Metering, Bracketing, Shadows, Exposure
    05) Advanced Lighting: Studio and Indoor Lighting
    06) Intro to Portraiture: Indoors
    07) Advanced Portraiture: Outdoors
    08) Shooting Landscapes and Nature
    09) Shooting Architecture, Buildings, Cityscapes and the Urban Environment
    10) Guidelines and Courtesies of Being a Street Photographer (not legal advice, just helpful hints)
    11) Shooting Cars and Things with Reflections
    12) Improvised Shooting Tools, Equipments and Gadgets - Help Save a Buck
    13) Intro to Digital Editing: Color Balance, Brightness, Contrast, Going Grey
    14) Advanced Digital Editing: Working with RAW, Your Camera's Software and Adobe Software
    15) Making a Portfolio
    16) Intro to Night Photography: Places, Things, Objects - Stuff That Doesn't Move
    17) Advanced Night Photography: People, Animals, Cars - Stuff That Does Move


    First: These are guides I'd like to see written, some I can write, some I can't. Others will need to step in in some places. Naturally, this will take some time, I'll do my best.

    These are in no particular order or preference, just how they first came to mind.

    1) This guide would be very easy. Basically the help we gave Tinker a while ago. What's you're budget? What do you want? What do you shoot? etc. This would primarily be a guide on terms used, functions included, what they mean and what they do to help people sort through the techie language. This is geared more towards the entry-level user, not pro-amateur, as they should already understand the terms before buying a $1000+ camera.

    2) What is F.Stop? How's it work? How is shutter-speed measured? What do I want to use when? How slow can I go hand-held? What's this button do? Your basic newbie questions asked and answered.

    3) This is the more artistic end of thing. Not a "set in stone" guide, but more useful tips, suggestions and standard practices. This is the building block and foundation for newbie photographers - what makes a good picture? What are you trying to capture? How to do it.

    4) Pretty self explanatory. What effects do my newly learned terms have on my images? Okay, so slowing my shutter-speed lets in more light, so what? What's that look like? Meter for the shadows? What? Bracketing? Huh? One step above what you meter? I'm lost. Easy enough I think.

    5) Working outdoors tends to be easier than indoors in my opinion. Sunlight is bright, constant and everywhere. Studio Lighting and Indoor lighting is much more difficult. How should I work my flash? When should I use it? What about angled lighting? How about my shadows here?

    6) This takes #5 and adds people. Advice for getting cooperative subjects and good candids. How to get honest, modest lighting on your son taking his first steps, etc.

    7) Like #6, duh, but now with dynamic lighting. Watch out for shade, clouds, rain, etc. Using the sun to your advantage (without blinding your model), don't cast your own shadow. Simply, working outdoors with others - play nice.

    8) Self explanatory. Some people have techniques on the technical end for shooting both. I was looking at making this more a matter of composition here. Shooting trees, plants and landscapes is a different beast. Basically getting more advanced comp. here. Also considering touching on macro-photography, maybe just calling it closeups and leaving macro for a whole other guide once I get a macro lens.

    9) Exactly like #8, but for man made structures. The lines are different and do different things to you photos.

    10) Some helpful hints and advice for professional courtesy. Basically, how not to be an ass and make photographers look bad. I'd like this to be a compilation of tips from forum photographers, maybe some stories about being chased by an enraged Red Hat Society lady because you took her pic holding that rediculous tie-dyed wrap that she just "loooved" and the shock of colors to the senses was too much to not take a pic of. Humph, we all have our experiences. Very important, this guide will NOT cover your ass legally.

    11) I run in to serious problems trying to photograph my Vette. I try to get the red color, but get sky because it's so shiny. It poses a legitimate technical problem. This guide would be about combating reflections and shooting through them, or using them to your advantage.

    12) DIY Photography - Gear on the cheap. Check out my $15 Studio light = Construction Lamps, White Cardboard and a mirror. Sweet. Oh yeah? Check out my PVC tripod. Advice to help your fellow photographers save a penny or 12000. Similar in style to #10.

    13) This is the easy stuff. Not so much a tutorial on how to do it in PS, because just like my modding tutorials, I assume you have a basic knowledge of the program you're working with. This will be tips on key things to focus on in photos. Skin-tones, un-washing photos etc. Very basic, easy stuff, simple edits.

    14) I'll be 100% honest, I've never done it. I can learn it, or someone else can do it. I don't mind either one. But, I know my D80 shoots in RAW and comes with RAW software for more advanced Digital Editing. A how-to guide on this.

    15) Self Explanatory. Selecting your best, organization etc. Probably pretty short, but will include helpful links to printers (US and UK) etc.

    16) My favorite subject. Self explanatory. Just like Nature and Architecture - looking at some more advanced comp but also advanced tech work too.

    17) Like #16, but working with your subject, controlling your camera better and reducing nasty blur etc.


    Phew, that was a lot of work. I could have written the first guide in this amount of time!
  2. Ruin
    Getting Started: The Parts

    "Ruin, tell me what to buy!" Truth is, I can't. Each system must be designed for its needs. What I did was go to Performance PCs and started with my CPU and GPU blocks. I got two that matched, thanks Swiftech (finding a GPU block for an 8800GTX for under $100 was a challenge) and then the rest I bought for brand matching. I got the Swiftech 2 fan Quiet Power Rad, the Swiftech Micro Res, and a small Swiftech pump (that's small, sleek, and works great!) I then bought Fluid-XP's Blood Red fluid, some Tygon tubing, some hose clamps (red), and a wiring dress kit - that's for later.

    Bottom line, products are being discontinued and new ones released frequently. Get online, search them, read reviews and figure out what is best for your use. Remember to take reviews with a grain of salt though.

    Okay. Order your parts, and I'll see you in a week.

    Installation: Organize

    Back so soon? So, you've got your gear? Good deal.

    Here's Mine:

    First thing to do, clean them all out.

    This is done simply, and does not need to be as complicated as some places online make it seem.

    All you need to do is rinse each part with hot - not boiling - distilled water. That's it. Do not use vinegar, it can destroy the integrity of welds and cause very permanent leaks. Use distilled to keep the system clean. Do not separate the base of the blocks from their tops. There's a sealing gasket that can, possibly, not reseal when you put them back together. Just rinse it out. With my GPU block, I had to separate the base and the top to change out mounting brackets. This was inevitable, so I was very cautious reseating everything. Make sure when you're done your fittings are on nice and snug, don't forget their gaskets also! I have not tried it, but after a leak in my system a couple days ago, I'd consider using black silicone adhesive, if you have some, to help give extra protection in sealing the threads of the nozzles.

    So, rinse, rinse, rinse. Take a good half-hour to do this. Why? Manufacturing companies save time and money on parts by not cleaning them once their finished. This means they ship to you with chemicals used in the manufacturing process. These chemicals will dirty your system, wear on your pump, and cause oxidization of your tubing, making a not so cool looking setup. So, clean everything.

    Installation: Getting To It

    Alright, here, you're really on your own. Follow the instructions of each piece. If you're building a new rig, mount the blocks on their parts before you install them into the PC. Where you mount things depends on your case layout and space you have. The one thing I would have done differently is to wire my PC before plumbing my WCing - Note: Do not hook up your power cables until the testing is done! Leave the components powerless until the WCing is ready to go!. Doesn't seem to have mattered too much, but it made cable management later on rather hard. Some people are weary though about hooking up parts to an untested WCing system. I understand, that's why I did the WCing first, tested it, and then hooked everything else up. No sense in inviting trouble right?

    Filling is done by adding fluid to the res or T-line and letting gravity, and your pump, do the rest. Don't run the pump with no fluid though! Make sure fluid gets to it first!

    Here's the best I can do for you on this:
    Install the blocks, mount the pump, install the fans on the rad, mount the rad, mount the res, plumb, fill, test. Before you get carried away though, test fit everything before you start drilling holes and mounting things. Make sure your tubing has no kinks and has good flow. This comes with testing. After testing, secure everything.

    You can see the temporary placement of the Res to allow gravity to work in my favor:

    Installation: Testing

    Okay, it's all hooked up, the loop is full, now the moment of truth.

    Two ways to do this:
    1) You have an AC pump. Easy, plug it in the wall, watch it go.
    2) You have a DC pump (plugs into PSU). This is also easy. Grab the 24pin plug (that I know you didn't hook up to your Mobo yet, because I said not to), and grab a paper-clip. So, this defies logic and makes the heart skip some if you've never done it. I know, it did mine. This is easy. Make that paper-clip into a U-Shape and look for the green wire #4. Put one end in there, and the other end in the adjacent black pin #5. Make sure it's black! That means it's a ground wire. Connection should make the pump jump to life. Yay! It runs!

    Keep adding fluid until all the bubbles are out of the system, the air is out, and you have a nice continuous flow.

    Now, other sites recommend a 24 hour test period before you run it on your PC for the first time. This is up to you. I did not. I had no leaks to start, but some developed later on. I believe the first, and so far only major, leak was caused by pressure and heat, which there's no way to replicate without running your PC. Make sure your nozzles are on tight and clamps are on tight and making a tight seal around the nozzles. My second leak came from the GPU block, my mounting bracket came loose and that seal I talked about earlier began to leak. The most recent leak came from a nozzle off my CPU block. This was partly my fault. The nozzle was loose, and in moving my graphics card (to tighten the GPU block to stop leak number two) the hose twisted causing the nozzle to loosen some. This was a small drip, but enough to cause me to rip the power cable out of my PC when I saw a puddle on my 8800GTX.

    Anyway, assuming you encounter no leaks, the pump works, you've got good flow... you're done. Hook up the rest and be on your merry way!

    Completion: Tips and Tricks

    So this section will grow, but first:

    Dealing with Leaks
    Immediately disconnect power from the PC. Determine the severity of your leak. Have you just severed an artery, or did you just get a paper-cut? If it's the former, try to use gravity in your favor. I grabbed my rad and held it up in the air as best I could while I struggled, with one hand, to move my res so I could drain the fluid down into a bottle so I could fix the leak. Make sure once you find the leak, fix it, and re-plumb and refill, you clean up any fluid in your case, and you test run the system (unplug your components!) first. Make sure the leak is gone.

    If you drip on to the mobo, or other IC card of some sort, all I did was grab a paper-towel, ground myself, and dabbed the water off. I have no idea if this is safe, or orthodox, but it worked for me. Make sure the card is 100% dry before you return power to it though.

    Hose Clamps
    You can use any kind of clamp really. But, I would recommend staying away from the metal clamps that tighten with a screw-driver. Reason being, I have these on my Vette. After frustration with my fuel system and simple anger, I slight extra 1/4 turn on the screw made that thin sharp metal cut clean through my gas hose. While I've not used these with Tygon tubing, I would imagine a similar thing could happen. I used the plastic locking clamps on my system. They came in a cool red and just needed a pair of pliers to get them nice and tight.

    Additional Links
    Some sites that helped me get started and may have different information.

    Guide to Water Cooling and Leak Testing - MaxxxRacer @ XtremeSystems.org
    Water Cooled Case Gallery - scrible88 @ XtremeSystems.org | To get your creative juices flowing. I used this to look at cases, WCing parts and different setups. It's where I chose my case, and to go with a 2x 120mm rad over a 3x 120mm rad.
  3. Ruin
    Introduction: The Journey
    After deciding to build big or go home, I knew I needed something out of the norm for my high end PC. I needed more than a clear window and some spiffy parts. I wanted... some bling. Well, not really. Ultimately my decision to water-cool (WC) my PC came down to two factors. 1) Over-clocking -herein referred to as OCing- my Q6600 and 2) Because I can. I'll be the first to admit, I knew nothing of water-cooling at the time other than it was complicated, expensive, impractical and all for show - it appealed to me immediately. But, boy, was I wrong.

    I immediately set off to do the first thing I do whenever I plan on dropping a large sum of money on something. I read. A lot. That's probably why you're reading this. To get the certifiably quick trimmed down version of WCing. Don't worry, I can help.

    The Disclaimer:
    After days and days of reading about loops, reservoirs, pumps, tygon, blocks, fluid, power, and high-flow; my brain thought it might too need some WCing. Fortunately, I just needed a beer. What I'm going to provide for you in this article is the basics of WCing. I will say right up front (you've read this far, you're interested) that I am not an expert at WCing. I've only ever WCed one system, and that's not been prefect (but at least without damage). The reason I say this is for a few reasons. WCing is a lot of fun, WCing is - relatively - cheap, I'm here to teach - not to sell, to let you learn from my experience, and to give you an unbiased look at the world of WCing from a complete WCing n00b who now runs a Q6600 at 3.6GHz 24/7 at 54*C - not bad (never more than 68*C under load). I'm honest because I don't want e-mails, PMs, TXT messages, phone calls, carrier pigeons or couriers from people asking me details about water-flow, tubing size, heat transfer rate and dissipation etc etc. I simply don't know. I can learn, but for now, I'm going to give you the same knowledge I feel is necessary to start at Ground Zero and build your way in to a working WC system for your beast of a PC.

    Getting Started: The Decision
    Is WCing right for you? "Oh yes Ruin! It is! I like cool colors, plastic hoses and water in my PC!" Really? While I will humbly admit that my PC is pretty pimp and matches the color of my Corvette quite nicely, I will say WCing is not for everyone! WCing is not even reccommended for the "above average" user, hell, not even the "daily gamer" needs it. WCing is for "Xtreme PCs." This seems like a term thrown loosley around the PC world, but I consider it it's own genre.

    First, let's start at the easy part - the cost. Weigh your options. Does the cost of a WC system match up with the cost of my PC? And by this, I don't mean "Yeah! $400 for my PC, $400 for my WC system!" No. Do be very blunt, I dropped $2000 on my tower alone. By that point, $350 for a WC system (CPU/GPU) wasn't much, it was pretty cheap given the benefits. Realize that to have a true WCing system you're going to spend no less than $250 (for cheap - CPU) and as much as $500 (CPU/GPU/SB/RAM) for good. Does your P4 with 1GB of RAM and 7600GT need WCing... probably not.

    Now, let's ask "Ruin, why should I WC? It looks bad ass, but does it work?" In my opinion, yes, it works VERY well. Water transfers heat much more effectively than air does. Take a look at Koolance's Article on Basics of Heat Transfer for a short, sweet explanation. As you can see, it's simple science. Water will move heat off of your core parts much more effectively than air does. This is an undeniable fact. So what are some other reasons to, or not to, WC my rig?
    Highly Effective Means of Cooling
    Low Noise - My system is silent.
    Less clutter in your case - looks cleaner and takes the weight off of a big HS/Fan off of your motherboard and PSU.
    High/Low Maintenance - Requires A More Rigorous Maintenance Schedule than an Air Cooled system, but Maintenance is fairly Painless
    Low Temps = High OCs
    Water Near Expensive PC Parts can be a Bad Mixture
    High Frequency Maintenance Schedule
    Really WCing is a good thing, if you can afford it and don't mind having water in your case, I've had my fair share of scares.

    The last thing I will add is a personal note. I'm not sure if it's a real reason for WCing or not, but it was a large part of my decision to WC. I ordered a pretty high end PC. I'm running some good stuff that I can only afford once. I decided that rather than gamble with heat and air cooling, I'd protect my investment by upgrading my cooling. If you happen upon some extra cash and decide to buy a PC (win the lotto, join the service, rob an old lady, whatever) and it's a one shot deal for you, the extra cooling from the WC system might not be a bad idea for some insurance. Heat wears down components, fast, the cooler they are, the longer they last. My goal when designing this rig was to have a PC that could run 4 cores at 3.6GHz 24/7 over the next 3 years - at least.

    Getting Started: The Preparation
    So, I've not talked you out of WCing yet? Good. Charlie Mike.

    Alright, I hope you're ready for a very crash course in WCing. I'm going to throw out a lot of information and do the best I can to "break it down Barney style." Learning terminology is going to be very important and knowing the parts to the system and understanding their function is key to a good WC loop. Dr. Cox, if you please: "The not-so-hidden message being, of course, that if you screw up today, I'm gonna hit ya hard! I'm gonna hit ya fast!"

    First, analyze the parts for your PC. Decide what you've got and what's worth WCing. Remember, each block will cost you anywhere from $45 to $100 for each part. So, the more you cool, the costlier it gets. Also, the more you cool, the larger the system you need, the larger the radiator (rad), the more fans, the more power draw off your PSU. It makes sense: Bigger = Costly = Resource Consuming. For the sheer ease of use, I'm going to use the specs from my build to aid in the process with this write-up.

    Asus P5K Deluxe Mobo
    Intel Q6600 Quad 2.4GHz stock
    4GB G.Skill RAM
    EVGA 8800GTX
    X-Fi Fatality Soundcard
    2x ASUS DVD Burners
    3x Seagate HD (totaling 820GB)
    880W Hiper PSU
    Cooler Master Stacker case
    Cool red lights and extra fans

    Alright, so based on my parts I see that I need a CPU block and a GPU block. Deciding on the CPU is a personal thing. No sense in ignoring it, and if one of the reasons you WC is for quiet, why leave on that cheap EVGA HS/fan?

    Note: Make sure your case is big enough for all of your parts! If you can't fit the rad inside the case, you need external mounting options!

    Now, we're going to determine a loop for my system. My case is large enough for everything to mount internally, even if it does present challenges - what's with the hump in the middle of the floor?

    To design a loop, you must first learn your parts, so, take notes:

    Water-Block: A block is nothing without a WC system, and a WC system is nothing without a block. This is what draws heat away from your CPU/GPU/Whatever. You need one of these for every part you plan to WC. Read up on mounting compatibility before you buy. If you can, buy blocks that are already lapped - for you car guys, lapping a block is like cutting and buffing a clear-coat. You take any machining defects out of the block's base, so that it achieves optimal surface contact. Since this is your first WCing build, I'd recommend NOT lapping a block on your own, let the pros do it.

    Pump: D'uh. Need I say more? This is what pushes the water through the tubing, through the blocks, through, well, everything.

    Reservoir: A reservoir is optional. Personally, I bought one because it was $20 (Swiftech-MCRES) and looks a lot smoother than a T-Line. Reservoirs hold additional fluid and make filling and emptying a snap.

    T-Line: Acts like a res. but is simply tubing that extends from your main loop above it, allowing gravity to do the work. Shaped like a T, makes sense right? You can do this, but you run the risk of restricting water flow with a T-fitting for the T-Line.

    Radiator: This is not optional. Without this, you'll get about 10 seconds of life out of your PC before it melts. Get a rad. Rads come in various sizes. I've got a 2 fan Swiftech that works great for my CPU/GPU loop.

    Tubing: Also not optional, something has to contain that fluid! You can get basic Masterkleer PVC tubing, or get Tygon. Pay attention to ID/OD (Inner/Outer Diameter) all of your fittings for your other parts need to be the same size so it all fits and there's no leak! I went with the Tygon, why? It flexes better, doesn't fog up as easily, and is a bit thicker. I like it.

    Fluid: This is what makes it all worth it. You can use any after-market fluid found on any website. Be weary of claims of non-conductivity, low algae etc. Some guys just clean their parts real good and used colored distilled water. We'll touch on this later.

    Fans: Up to you really. You can go cheap, go LED, or go silent. I chose Silent - Scythe 120mm fans on my rad are dead quiet. The only noise coming from my PC (even with two stock case fans - 1x 120mm and 1x 80mm) is from an Apevia red LED fan I bought for the rear exhaust, and the hard-drives when they're spinning. Nothing else makes noise, it's amazing.

    Okay, so we're ready to plan our loop.

    Because it's a circle, you can start anywhere, but the best place to start, is at the pump. There are only two rules:
    1) The pump's inlet must draw from the Rad
    2) The pump's outlet must go to a T-Line/Res

    Even these rules are flexible depending on your setup, but try to make them happen.

    So, the loop for my PC is:
    Pump > Res > CPU > GPU > Rad > Pump

    Pretty easy right? My original plan was:
    Pump > Res > CPU > SB > GPU > Rad > Pump
    But the P5K's SB chip already has a HS on it. Ooops. Maybe some day I'll take the HS off and mount the block I bought, who knows.
  4. Ruin
    After, no joke, months of research and study, I think I have finally compiled the parts list for me new PC. I thought I'd post it here first and get prepared for my Worklog that will go in the main forums.

    Project History: The Beginning
    I've been long overdue for a new PC for quite some time. Those who have been here at GR.net for a while probably remember me struggling to run GRAW (and even some [GR] mods) on my old Athalon 6400+ / Radeon 9500Pro desktop. Yeah, it sucks. I had a couple PSUs blow out on it, lost a few hard-drives, and now the thing finally quit. I bought a laptop before I left for school in Washington DC in July of 2006. After one too many nights on the town, going to clubs, and hosting parties... my laptop became a raging alcoholic. To this day, the signs of its troubled past are evident in its wacked out keyboard - the left arrow is always going. Good luck typing a sentence with the cursor forever moving backwards. Don't laugh, it sucks. Well, since its alcoholism, we've had issues. Big issues. To the point I packed up the music, pictures, and important memories and moved them into a new place (external hard-drive). I left for Ft. Knox Sept 10, 2007 hoping that some time apart would solve some problems. Upon my return, I found nothing had improved. In fact, the problems have worsened. Fed up and tired of living with a drunkard suffering withdrawals, I decided it was time to find someone new in my life - to the shegrin of my girlfriend. Well, I did some serious shopping around. Found out the best places to go, and have come up with a computer to rival some of the best PCs found here at GR.net and even around the web for under $3000 (parts only, not to include shipping) with a new Monitor, Mouse, and Software. Really, the actual tower comes out to $1,771 with about $350 in the cooling. Now add the aforementioned parts and some games, we get a grand total of almost exactly $3000 before S/H.

    Objective: The Future
    I needed a hard-hitter. A go to, go anywhere, do anything, do everything, all-go, no quit PC that would last me at least a couple years on the high-end spectrum. I wanted a PC that was so well rounded a baseball envied it for its shape. Mind you, this was no small task. I demanded a gaming PC capable of burning DVDs, a Digital Photo Editing powerhouse that could entertain 14+ drunken college students, a Web-Browser that could render in 3D. This is where the research started. In a later post I will explore every piece of hardware and software I bought and delve into why I bought them. This will come later.

    Ultimately, I had a challenge. Given that I had taken a 4 year hiatus from building PCs, catching up to the technology was a big slap in the face. "Whoah, we have dual cores now? Quad cores!? Holy ######!" You get the idea. I had a LOT of reading to do.

    So, in good old fashioned bullet format:

    Be able to play the latest and hottest games at godly FPS rates - on a large format wide screen monitor.
    Be able to load up multiple digital pictures taken at 10.2MP, and edit them all in a matter of seconds to clean up dirty images (heh) and prepare for image processing in CS3 or Lightroom.
    Be able to watch and create DVDs without frustrating pauses, lags, and general annoyances.
    Be able to run 3D Studios efficiently and create large renders.
    Be able to play music - loud.
    Be able to do this all simultaneously.
    The Build: The Present:
    Without further ado, and the ramblings of a giddy twenty year old, I give you...


    Cooler Master Stacker
    ASUS P5K Deluxe Motherboard
    Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 @ 2.4GHz
    G.SKILL 2GB DDR2 @ PC2 6400
    EVGA 768MB GeForce 8800GTX
    Creative SB X-Fi XtremeGamer 7.1
    Hiper 880w PSU
    Seagate Barracuda 500GB SATA HD
    Seagate Barracuda 160GB SATA HD (2)
    ASUS 20x DVD+R DVD Burner SATA (2)
    Samsung 226Bw 22" WS LCD Monitor
    Windows Vista Ultimate 64bit
    Windows XP SP2
    Logisys 12" Red CC (2)
    Logisys 4" Red CC (2)
    APEVIA 120mm Red LED Fan (2)
    OKGEAR 80mm Case Fan
    Scythe USA Mineba 120mm Case Fan (2)
    OKGEAR 18" Red SATA II Cable (6)
    OKGEAR 8" Molex>SATA Power Cable
    Razer Copperhead Tempest
    Razer Pro|Solutions Pro Mouse-Pad
    -World In Conflict, Crysis, Medal of Honor: Airborne, Call of Duty 4, GRAW2 {It's a start}

    Swiftech Apogee GT Extreme CPU Block
    Swiftech MCW60 GPU Block
    Swiftech MCW30 NB Block
    Swiftech MCR220 Quiet Power Series Dual 120mm Radiator
    Swiftech MCP355 Pump
    Swiftech MCRES-Micro Reservoir
    Clamps (14)
    Tygon Tubing (16ft)
    Fluid-XP Coolant
    CM Stacker Side Panel

    *Numbers inside of parentheses "( )" denote quantity

    The story about my laptop being drunk is not a story. It's the absolute truth, I'm not kidding. Think about it.

    Oh, for you other "shutter-bugs" who are curious about the toys my camera (Nikon D80) is getting... lens, and flash. ENVY ME!
  5. Ruin
    Wow... that's how long since my last blog entry. Hmmn. I have a lot to say.

    For those who are blind and can't read the forums... story of Ruin's life since last post:
    -Came home and worked for the summer.
    -Tore up the Transmission in my Jeep.
    -Got my 69 'Vette running.
    -Enlisted in the Army National Guard
    -Broke the Vette
    -Went to Ft. Knox and trained as a 19 Delta Cavalry Scout.
    -Left Ft. Knox and got home just over a week ago.
    -Fixed Transmission in the Jeep.
    -Waiting on Signing Bonus to buy a new PC.
    -Still with the same wonderful young lady. Two year anniversary in May.

    Meh, thought I'd share.

    I'm going to use my blog to keep track of my PC build too before I take it to the forums. So, if you read this, you'll get a sneak peek before everyone else.
  6. Ruin
    Looking at my various web accounts, I realize one thing. I have way too many pictures.

    So... I'm in the process of doing a massive reconstruction of all of my sites, including this blog. I've got tons and tons of pictures to sort through and organize and caption. This will involve roughly 4000 pictures, so give me time.
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