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Kyle_K_ski

Computer bulit, but monitor & maybe hard drive not working...

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Arrrrrgh!!!!!

I have spent over 9 hours building my first computer, and it's still not working properly!

Please, if any of you can think of something that I'm getting wrong, or missing, don't hesitate to send your advice my way.

First, the parts that I used for this build can be found listed here: List of Build Parts.

What is working?

1. The power turns on.

2. The optical drive's LED is lit green, and its tray opens/closes on demand.

3. ALL of the fans are spinning and the one's that are supposed to glow do so, and...

4. ...the Power and Reset buttons on the motherboard panel are lit up red (I'm assuming that these lights can only glow red, and not green).

What's not working:

1. Nothing is displayed on the monitor. And "Yes" it is turned on.

2. The LED light on the front of the case to indicate hard drive activity briefly flashes a red glow at startup, but nothing thereafter. Perhaps the hard drive shows no activity because the drivers haven't been installed, and the operating system is waiting to go on. That said, the 320 GB SATA hard drive is a used one, but its previous owner is meticulous, and it's HIGHLY unlikely that there's anything wrong with it. I'm assuming that there is data on said hard drive.

What could be wrong?

These are my inexpert musings, but in case they can prove of value, I'm presenting them here:

The manufactorors of the HIS Radeon graphics card supply a x2 4 pin to a x1 6 pin power connector. Although they supplied said device, they strongly advise not to use it if there's a 6 pin PCI Express power connection available (which there is). I have tried both means of supplying power to the graphics card, and both means supply enough power that the card's cooler fan is spinning. The manual keeps making constant references to plugging in TWO PCI Express power connectors into the card, but this card has only ONE receptacle (I have scrutinized its exterior numerous times, there is but the one power connection).

Could the graphics card be working, but because the hard drive (might) be improperly operating, that its signals can't be displayed on the monitor?

In regards to the hard drive's LED light at the case's front: it has a clear red plastic bubble (so it has to emit a red glow, right?), I checked the motherboard's manual over and over again, so I'm confident that I have it's x2 pronged cable hooked up right into the System Panel Header, especially since the Power and the Reset switches are being lit up (but they're lit red, is this color the lights' default color, or does it indicate that they're wired up improperly?). So, if I can figure it out for two of the three devices, then I'm assuming that I have the third one correct as well. Perhaps there's something wrong with the hard drive? And, if there is, could it be having an impact on nothing showing up on the monitor, and the graphics card is really working, but we just can't tell because the hard drive is kaput?

Or are the graphics not being displayed because the older 600 W power source is not delivering the wattage it used to deliver when it was newer? Or is it due to my house being so old that not enough juice is being pumped out of the wall socket so that the wattage can be properly generated and channeled to the graphics card? I can't recall the exact expected wattage-demand that was calculated when I was doing my research, I'm pretty sure it was around 480 Watts, but perhaps that calculator was off a good degree, and I need more power? Or is the graphics card defective, or...?

And that's all that I can think of at this point. I am earnestly hoping that I'm missing something simple, and that there aren't any defects in the parts.

I worry a little bit that I screwed the cooler unit on too tightly over the top of the processor, but before I even started screwing it on, I checked several instructional articles and videos, and they all said to tighten down the cooler unit's screws till they quite-suddenly tighten to a near stop. This is exactly what I did, so...

And the manuals for all of these devices are nearly impossible to make sense of, with the least helpful illustrations, and with extremely limited Keys/Legends to make sense of all of the notations. I swear, had they invested in another quarter page's worth of paper and ink, they could avoid having to field a lot of nervous email/telephone requests for help, and thus save big money on supplying service help to those who made mistakes and/or are confused. But I guess they like loosing money.

Again, any help would be greatly appreciated (especially since the 30 day return deadline is fast approaching!).

Thank you!

Kyle

April 17, 2011

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sounds like the CPU doesnt have power. does the computer beep?

and the power pack DOES have a 12V rail right?

even with powerpack capacitor aging it should still work because 480 watts out of 500 it should still run, and if it is 80 plus, then i doubt it would even go down as low as 500 watts

plus did you take out the power plug for that XP old hard drive AS WELL AS the data cables linked to the motherboard. it could be an issue too.

empty hard drives do tend to flash now and then, it's just to tell you it's being accessed by the system so there isn't a worry there, the hard drive should be okay to work unless you didn't earth yourself (touch a metal part of the case before assembling the parts/ wearing latex gloves or a static charge band), then it could be static charge damage, there are so many different reasons why it may not be working.

oh, if it isnt beeping at you, i have come across this ###### too many times, and usually it is the motherboard or the CPU to blame, on occasions the PSU can be to blame if a capacitor has blown or if it isn't wired up properly, just open it up and either take a photo of the insides as you built it for verification or verify it yourself if you feel you know how everything should be wired.

Edited by Zeealex

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Thanks for your input. My answers to your questions will be in this bold white font.

sounds like the CPU doesnt have power. does the computer beep?

I honestly can't recall. I was so tired from working on it (I was being fastidious about doing everything right, so I was checking multiple text/video step-by-step tutorials with every little step I made. That, and trying to decipher the ridiculously obscure "directions" in the manuals) and all my attention was on the monitor each and every time I started up the computer.

and the power pack DOES have a 12V rail right?

No clue. Would it be declared on a label somewhere on its exterior? I didn't get a manual, so I should probably find its online counterpart to make sure (although thus far the manuals are universally abysmal and I wouldn't be at all surprised if the manual doesn't even mention anything about it).

even with powerpack capacitor aging it should still work because 480 watts out of 500 it should still run, and if it is 80 plus, then i doubt it would even go down as low as 500 watts

That friend of mine, Jack, who gave me that 600 W Cooler Master, who is a dentist who hand-assembles all of his businesses computers and their networking, is very dedicated to getting the best energy-friendly and highly regarded products when he builds his systems, so I'm assuming that this PSU followed his building-philosophy when he bought it, and he's very big on the "80 plus" labeling. Can't say for certain though.

plus did you take out the power plug for that XP old hard drive AS WELL AS the data cables linked to the motherboard. it could be an issue too.
The 320 GB hard drive that Jack gave me came bare (just the drive). All of the cabling running to/from it is brand new. I used the cables that came with the Roseville Challenger computer case.

empty hard drives do tend to flash now and then, it's just to tell you it's being accessed by the system so there isn't a worry there, the hard drive should be okay to work unless you didn't earth yourself (touch a metal part of the case before assembling the parts/ wearing latex gloves or a static charge band), then it could be static charge damage, there are so many different reasons why it may not be working.

I can't say for certain whether or not Jack zeroed out the 320 GB hard drive before he handed it over to me, so I can't say if it's being read as being "empty" or not. And as I said above, when I say I was "fastidious" about putting this system together, I'm not exaggerating. The entire computer case, including its exterior, is metal, and I made sure I touched some metal part of it before picking up any piece, and this is in addition to my wearing blue nitrile medical gloves the entire time. I even washed the entirety of the screwdrivers I was using before I started. Due to the financially hard times, we need this system to LAST, so I was very careful with this stuff (which slowed me down even more). And I can't say yet if the hard drive's kaput or not, since the monitor isn't displaying anything to verify, unless, of course, that hard drive LED (if it's wired correctly, and I'm highly confident it is) is not hooked up properly.

I'm hoping that Jack will be stopping by to take a quick look at this today. He already suspects that it's either the graphics card or the motherboard that's acting up. I'd be majorly bummed out if the problem ends up being the motherboard or the AMD Phenom II. Either one of those would add a ton of time to replacing. Well, not so much the Phenom II, as I now know for sure the correct way to assemble that CPU cooler. Ugh!

I'm going to have my wife watch the system start up with me once I get everything hooked back up, to see if I'm missing any kind of signal when it starts. More info as I get it. THANKS again!!!

Edited by Pave Low
changed your text font so people can read your answers (choosing white text is not good as it wont show on most skin choices)

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ah right cool,

it should say whether the PSU has 12V rails on the label on the exterior yes.

well if he is an energy freak it should be 80 plus then, 80 plus basically means the PSU runs at 80%+ efficiency all the time, in case you didnt know.

cool, i was just thinking, the circuitry could've been an issue.

were the screwdrives magnetic? if they were, theres the problem

Edited by JohnTC02
Removed Unnecessary Quote - when replying to the latest post there is no need to quote the whole post - Please use the "Add Reply" button instead.

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Thanks again for your input.

No, the screwdrivers weren't magnetic. Washing something like those (with all of the different heads around the handle's base) would've been a real pain in the butt. I washed several non-magnetic Phillips head screwdrivers, but pretty much solely depended on the longest handled one, especially when dealing with securing that CPU cooler.

And I just looked up that PSU. Here's the info on it, and "Yes" it has several 12 V rails: RS-600-ASAA listing.

What really makes me nervous, especially in light of your mentioning of the magnetic screwdrivers is this: I worked at UPS for a couple of years, both in the Unload and then later in the Sorting, and there's no way that shipping places control for issues such as that. ALL kinds of stuff are just packed together in the backs of those trailers. When UPS went on strike in 1997, the management had to rapidly empty out the entire trailers on their own just to retrieve the human organs that are shipped through them. You'd think that something as sensitive and as vital as human tissues would be loaded in a particular location of the trailer, to ensure their viability and quick retrieval, but you'd be wrong.

The only thing that was routinely located was the money when it was transported from one center to a hub. But no surprise there, is there? :rolleyes:

Alright, I've just finished moving the graphics card to the other PCI Express slot, so I'm going to take a small bit of time, and plug everything in to the case.

Wish me luck! :thumbsup:

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Ugh!

Had my wife in front of the computer. She saw the LED for the hard drive briefly appear once the computer was started up, but neither of us heard a beep. I assume that this sound is mandatory to indicate that the motherboard/CPU is working, or...?

Moving the graphics card to the other PCI Express slot made no difference. Still nothing on the screen.

Any final verdicts? I'm VERY sure that all the plugs/cables are where they're supposed to be.

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sounds like either the case doesnt have a speaker/buzzer or there isnt a POST report.

POST means Power On Self Test, the one beep means everything is ship shape and working fine, depending on the BIOS certain beep codes mean certain things, but no beeps, always points to a problem.

if you didn't attach a buzzer again, there is the problem, it could be trying to tell you something but it can't because you dont have a buzzer if you don't have one, you may want to invest in one they are really cheap off amazon

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BUZZER?!

The Roseville case shipped with a small bag of screws that also had a round thin plastic disc entitled "Speaker," and it has two long and very thin wires coming off of it, and that ended with a tiny 3 of 4 prong plug. I had no idea what was for, and the case's manual made no mention of it, nor the motherboard documentation. I find it bizarre that the motherboard would not come with a buzzer, but in any case, this is just another example of a firm doing a poor job of supplying enough info for the consumer.

Alright, I'll try plugging it in, and then listen to what it might tell us.

If we're REALLY fortunate, perhaps it'll say, "Dear valiant and nit picky computer-builder, have thee heart! Thous didst miss kissing thine case, and lo, thine fine affections shalt trigger the monitor's functioning...!"

But I won't hold my breath for that.

More later.

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pcloft203694992016jj2.jpg

It should have it printed on the mobo were to plug it in.

This is what makes the bleep sounds when you power up the PC. It enable software etc, to give out certain beep sequences, to allow for error reporting.

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there we go kyle! great tinker is to the rescue :D

buzzer/ speaker whatever you want to call it :P

this is why i am a Gigafreak, it tells you ON THE BOARD AND IN THE MANUAL IN CLEAR ENGLISH where the wires go. i would have said, oh get a GA-MA770-UD3 which does what you want it to, but i didnt want to be Gigafreak in yo' face plus i have never tried ASrock before so i didn't want to comment.

i doubt it will fix the monitor but it will lead you to the issue if there is any to speak of. the manual should have the BIOS beep codes in there somewhere if it does beep more than once.

Edited by Zeealex

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This is what makes the bleep sounds when you power up the PC. It enable software etc, to give out certain beep sequences, to allow for error reporting.

That's exactly what it looks like, and I installed it right where the motherboard's schematic said it should be. When I started up the computer afterward, it made a "beep" sound that pretty much sounded like a little car tooting its horn ("beep-beep"). It was barely audible though, so I can't say with even 75% certainty if I was hearing two beeps, or one.

To no one's surprise, the motherboard's manual says nothing about the significance of the number of "beeps" produced by said speaker. Is the fact that it's beeping a good sign? Does it signify that the processor's okay, and/or that the motherboard's okay?

Jack just left, and I knew he was "hardcore", but not exactly how hardcore he was till he showed up with his plastic tub full of tools and spare computer parts. He even showed me this device that insulated cables. He used to dismantle the cables and then encase them in that fine mesh insulation material. Now, that's a hardcore computer builder! And that's why I took his advice very carefully when building this thing.

What I'm happy to report is that he had no criticisms with how I assembled the system. Yeah, I'm pretty proud of myself. At least all of that stress got me a nice compliment from a pro! :-D

Right now, he's pretty focused on believing that the issue is likely a simple one: either the graphics card or the cable running from the card to the monitor (maybe the motherboard, but he's doubtful about that). We know that the monitor is operating fine. But I had to use the HDMI adapter on the card, and even though the adapter I'm using came with the card, Jack swapped it out and checked it with his own, to no avail. So, he's recommending that I get a DVI "D" cable. "Yes" the card should work with the adapter, BUT he's experienced firsthand it not working till a more proper DVI "D" cable has been attached. He's said that in spite of the advertising they do, that these systems can be far less flexible than they'd like the public to know. He gave me another example: when he built his wife's computer, he accidentally setup an extra stand-off for the motherboard. It kept shorting out on him, and the hours it took for him to find the culprit were plenty. So, something as little as that can keep the whole system from working properly.

I'm heading out soon to the nearest Staples and Wal-Mart, although their online prices are ridiculously high ($60 for 3 m. worth of cable!), I'm hoping that they have them for much cheaper or on Clearance in the store, especially since I can get a 2 m. cable for $6-9 through Newegg.com, although in all honesty, I am VERY nervous about what could happen if I ordered the part, found out it didn't fix the problem, and then I end up trying to return the graphics card or (perhaps) even the motherboard and they're both beyond their 30-day returns policy.

Jack thinks that they'd be fine with it in light of the circumstances: I had to build the computer several weeks out from the date of the order, (which is a common event) and that we're in a troubleshooting process that's designed to address the least expensive fix first (a process that's in Newegg's and the manufacturer's long-term financial favor). Do you any of you have such stories that you could share in regards to Newegg's flexibility on such issues? Are they pretty understanding of such things, or would I be better off buying the part locally at a much higher cost, so that if the cable doesn't work, I still have just enough time to get the graphics card back in the mail to Newegg?

And just to think things out a bit, let's say that I do get that cable today, and it makes no difference; there's still no picture on the monitor. Should I then assume that it's the graphics card? If so, and I send that back, and they then send me a new one, and I test that out, and the new card doesn't fix the issue, I'll then be beyond the 30 days for the motherboard. What then? Would they understand the troubleshooting process, and respect that and then be flexible with their returns policy, or...?

I know that I'm asking you all to be partly "psychic" here, but just tell me what you think is most likely going to be true.

What a stressful mess.

Thanks again for all of your help!

i doubt it will fix the monitor but it will lead you to the issue if there is any to speak of. the manual should have the BIOS beep codes in there somewhere if it does beep more than once

Yeah, but with the monitor not working, I can't read the BIOS. It would've been nice had they included "The Essential" beeps, at least, on paper, for situations such as mine, which, after spending more time with Jack, leads me to believe that they're more common than one would expect.

And don't be ashamed to be all "Giga-in-my-face." If you got it, flaunt it!

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the beeps are a sign that processes are running through the processor.

AMI, 2 short: parity circuit failure,

or it usually means something is up with the RAM what mhz is the RAM again?

the video card is fine you wont get video output if there is somethign wrong that triggers the POST.

listen again, but leave it, does it beep 8 times after that?

then you have a bad board. see if you can return it and use the money for a Gigabyte board, in which i will know like the back of my hand, so any solutions to do with the board will be easy if you ask me OR consult the user manual because, Gigabyte knows the meaning of fool proof, not saying anything about you there, it is just really easy to get around and they ACTUALLY WORK! :D apart from one batch of mobos which has a bug at the moment, but as soon as the were informed, they got to work in fixing it.

the GA-MA770-UD3 is a great board in which i built my first AMD PC on, i never had an issue with it other than it had no on board video, and sods law my nvidia card broke down 3 weeks in after the build. and the RAM support is DDR2 meaning you'll have to take the RAM back too.

Edited by Zeealex

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Beep Codes:

No Beeps: Short, No power, Bad CPU/MB, Loose Peripherals

One Beep: Everything is normal and Computer POSTed fine

Two Beeps: POST/CMOS Error

One Long Beep, One Short Beep: Motherboard Problem

One Long Beep, Two Short Beeps: Video Problem

One Long Beep, Three Short Beeps: Video Problem

Three Long Beeps: Keyboard Error

Repeated Long Beeps: Memory Error

Continuous Hi-Lo Beeps: CPU Overheating

I suspect not enough power for the card, any chance of putting a better quality power supply unit in?

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:wall:

The DVI "D" cable did NOT work. :(

I ran to Staples, and they had a previously-opened 3 m long chord on clearance for $25, instead of $40. I picked it up because I figured that by the time I ordered a cheaper one, added in shipping and handling, and then waited for the delivery, well, my sanity couldn't hold out that long.

This is the RAM that I got A-DATA XPG Gaming Series v2.0 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model AX3U1600GB2G9-DG2: A-Data RAM.

the video card is fine you wont get video output if there is somethign wrong that triggers the POST

What's the "POST?" It sounds like you're saying that the CPU is operating okay, but that there's potentially a "parity circuit failure," if that is what's wrong (I'll listen VERY carefully again), then is that caused by the RAM, or an issue with the motherboard? It sounds like you're suspecting that the issue has more to do with the motherboard than anything else, yes?

In a few minutes I'm going to get my wife to sit next to me and figure out what it is that we're hearing exactly from that tiny speaker. I wish that it was louder and more distinctive. When I described the likely "two-beeps" as sounding like a car tooting its horn, the sound's so muffled and muddled that it sounds like a honking horn from a car that's driving by. :P

Alright, time to purchase a hearing aide, and then move on over to the tiny speaker.

Oh, and by the way, is there any real point in my keeping that DVI "D" cable? I don't understand how it's better than the cable with its adapter that I was already using. Will it result in higher framerates, a crisper and more detailed picture, or...?

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Julie and I sat by the computer case, put our heads up real close, and started up the computer. For some reason the sound was clear and quite noticeable (maybe because I moved the RAM to different slots? That would be a weird trigger for better sound from an internal micro-speaker, but whatever). We counted two beeps, and waited a couple of more minutes for more beeps. There weren't any.

So, we restarted the computer again. And once more, two more beeps. We waited around for five more minutes, and there weren't any more beeps produced. Do I need to somehow send more inputs into the system, to see if more beeps will be produced? If so, what could those be? A certain set of keystroke inputs (that will be a bit tricky without a monitor to see what verify what it is I'm typing)?

Thanks again!

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Ok, lets slow this down.

1st of all no video, no post.

Count the beeps, are they longer or shorter

Take all the ram out. Start with 1 stick. Try in 1st slot. if no post, try 2nd stick, 3rd ect. then move slot. It is possible also 1 memory card not seated can stop the whole boot.

next.

Take the processor out. Look for bent pins on mainboard or processor if that one has them. put it back. try to boot. (Reseating can help sometimes)

also make sure all power connectors to mainboard from powersupply are plugged in.

remove all front switch cables from mainboard. use screwdriver to short power pins. see if it boots.

remove bios battery after removing power from power supply. turn it sideways and use the battery to short the 2 connectors. This will reset the bios. put the battery back, test.

The beep codes though are really important. if you are getting them, we need to know, how many short in a row, how many long in a row. VERY IMPORTANT for troubleshootings.

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What's the "POST?" It sounds like you're saying that the CPU is operating okay, but that there's potentially a "parity circuit failure," if that is what's wrong (I'll listen VERY carefully again), then is that caused by the RAM, or an issue with the motherboard? It sounds like you're suspecting that the issue has more to do with the motherboard than anything else, yes?

Oh, and by the way, is there any real point in my keeping that DVI "D" cable? I don't understand how it's better than the cable with its adapter that I was already using. Will it result in higher framerates, a crisper and more detailed picture, or...?

POST= Power On Self Test. it's pretty self explanitory. the system will run power through the motherboard and it will pick up on anything defective or not responding and it will report back to you with a series of beeps.

yes i'm saying either the mother board OR the RAM is to blame, thanks for telling me the type :D i'll edit this when i figure out what is up.

Roco may have a point, did you seat the processor like

GBTMA790FXT_phenom2.jpg wow, gigabyte, convenient :P

see THAT is the board you need ^ probably too expensive. nope out of stock :P

do what you want with the DVI cable, you can get DVI-HDMI cables too, which make things look pretty :P

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Found it your RAM is too high Mhz to start off on the board, at a guess, i must have read it wrong, it says you can easily OC the RAM to 1600Mhz but not start off with that. Sorry my molestake :(

so, simple solution, you can try and reset the CMOS, it should have a Switch somewhere apparently, it should say something like CLR_CMOS under or on it.

if that wont help, take the RAM back and get 1333MHz RAM

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Jack already tried resetting the CMOS yesterday. I'll try pressing the CLR_CMOS button once I get the computer plugged back in after work, but I have my doubts as to what its effectiveness is going to be.

So, for sure, the RAM's default MHz settings, if not the entire problem, is certainly a large enough issue to cause the system not to send an image to the monitor, and cause the two beeps? And that means, no matter what, I have to get RAM that starts at 1333 MHz?

That A-Data packaging was a monster to get open, and is no longer very "neat" looking. Will Newegg have any issues with me returning it? Do I need to send it back with a note declaring the RAM to be most likely okay? Also, can I order the new RAM before I hear back from Newegg about the refund-status of the A-Data RAM, or should I wait on ordering the new RAM till I first hear back from them, or...?

Should I hold off on any of Roco*AFZ*'s recommendations till I get the new RAM installed? If A-Data's RAM's Mhz is a for sure "show-stopper," then I don't see much point in going through all of Roco*AFZ*'s nicely detailed step-by-step advice. And thank you for it too Roco!

Thanks again all !

Alright, have to hit the road. Have a great day/evening everyone!

Edited by Pave Low
Please stop using white text as it doesnt show up on some forum skins

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i'm sure if you just say that it stopped the PC from working then they should be able to take it back, because in a sense, it is faulty.

if the new slower RAM doesnt work then the motherboard is to blame, i'll research further in case i missed something out

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hey kyle, you guessed it! me again XD

what slots are the RAM sticks in? if they are in the blue slots, move them to the white slots and try that, it sounds barmy but just bear with me :P if that doesnt work DEFINATELY the RAM.

Edited by Zeealex

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They started out in the two white slots, and then were moved over to the blue by Jack yesterday. So, the RAM's been tried as MATCHED pairs in both sets of MATCHING slots, and in either case, they monitor didn't display anything.

Do you have any recommendations for the new RAM I should try purchasing? I'd like it to be the DDR3 type, as fast as possible, but that won't violate the motherboard's parameters. Talk about juggling balls in the air!

I'm "eating" lunch right now, so it won't be long till I'm back working...

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i know it can be mad. any corsair or kingston hyper X DDR3 1333Mhz should be okay to run on the motherboard. as far as i know, then you can just overclock it.

Edited by Pave Low
Removed Unnecessary Quote - when replying to the latest post there is no need to quote the whole post - Please use the "Add Reply" button instead.

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Before you rush to RMA anything or purchase new parts please follow the steps Roco suggested. The RAM you purchased (while not on the specific list of parts approved by your motherboard vendor) should be just fine. The specific list of approved RAM can be found at http://www.asrock.com/mb/memory/870%20Extreme3.pdf and it inclued DDR3-1600 RAM from A-Data, just not your exact part. In general RAM can not be "too fast" for your processor or motherboard.

How did you decide to pair that processor and motherboard? Looking at the supported processor list for your M/B (located at http://www.asrock.com/mb/cpu.asp?Model=870%20Extreme3 ) I do not see you precise processor, the closest I see is HDX840WFK42GM, which may be the OEM part number for your processor, but I am not sure. I have not done an AMD build in a while, so please check with someone that knows their processor numbering scheme to confirm compatibility.

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I've just posted a detailed help request at TweakTown Forums, as they have ASRock representatives there to lend assistance. I hope that it's speedy, reliable, and effective.

A technician from the school district I work in has also cautioned me in regards to returning the RAM, saying that

Your memory is 1600 overclocked, but it will run fine on speeds below. You board probably defaulted to 1300, which is fine. Try following your motherboard's directions to reset the bios/cmos as this may get things to settle. Also, try just installing one memory stick at a time.

I've never had any issues returning anything to newegg, and hopefully you don't have to return anything.

So, after dinner, I'm going to try one stick of RAM at a time (in the 1st blue slot), go through all of Roco's recommendations, and be ready to hit the CLR_CMOS switch between every step that doesn't result in a picture on the monitor.

In other words: great fun!

More later. Thanks again all for your encouragement and advice.

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